Last updated May 18  2023
Click for a story that really applies to this, the smallest of Indian twins!

Update March 2024 Please go to the new IPE website:
The 741 Scout is a favorite here at IPE, and very popular all over the world as a first Indian - and as a great bike in its own right for riders who don't regularly need to take long trips or go on motorways. Not that you can't take long trips on a 741; I know several 741 riders who tour extensively on their Scouts but a Chief is probably better for long, fast trips with luggage, and the Scout more handy for local transport. IPE has pretty much anything (including all the "regular" parts in addition to the special stuff here) you will ever need for your 741 engine, as well as many chassis and cycle parts (not as much of this is made new for 741 as for Chiefs and 101, though). Again, not all of this is in stock all the time, so plan ahead and order your parts in good time before you will need them. 

IPE also has a number of go-faster parts, including stroker parts to turn your humble Scout into a fire-breathing monster (well, almost!). I will do my best to expand this page into a complete list of everything I can offer for 741s, but it may take a little while. Ask if you need anything you don't see.  Please note that many of the parts here fit Sport Scouts too so, if you have one of these great bikes, feel free to get in touch.

Here are a couple of examples of the parts I have - if not in stock all the time, then to order - for your 741 and Sport Scout. This includes pretty much everything for most years. 

I have even more for Chiefs, and it is even more impossible to list all of it - so ask if you need anything you don't see, or if you are not sure what you need.

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Sport Scout valve parts.
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741 fork parts.
Valve guides, made in Denmark from good quality cast iron, for your 741 are available in STD and 0.1mm (.004") oversize. If the guide bores in your cylinders are really worn out, I can probably come up with bigger oversizes to special order. Hard-chromed stainless valves work well with these guides, and I usually have those in stock in STD and big head versions. Springs, collars and keys too, as well as most other valve related parts (push rods in several over sizes, rollers and rivets for cam followers etc). All of this is usually in stock, but not always, so it is - as ever - a good idea to start talking about your parts some time before you really need them. P/N 44318 or 44318OS Valve guide, in/ex, 741 each. ASK Click to view full-size
741 valve guides.
Also available for Sport Scout to order.
Not everybody may be aware that the factory used the rear axle castings from the 101 frame when they made the 741 rear frame. The 741 has more ground clearance than the Sport Scout frames, so they needed a new casting for this. It seems the old 101 castings were just the job, which saved them making new castings patterns. So if you need to repair your 741 rear frame - or make a new one (the rest of the rear frame is mainly tubing) - or make a 648 racer, for that matter, these castings are the way to go. 101 rear axle castings from IPE (and all the other 101 castings as well) are now cast in steel molds, rather than in sand like the first generation. The major benefit here is a better finish. P/N 101RXL (left side) and P/N 101RXR (right side) sold out Click to view full-size
101 and 741 rear frame castings.
Just One More Bonneville Post!
- or "a Real-life Report on CV Carb & IPE Manifold on a 600cc 741"
This is Neil's fabulous 741-engined race bike at the 2011 BUB races at Bonneville. I'll post Neil's report below, but basically the engine is 600cc "big bore" with bigger valves, but otherwise fairly stock (stock cams etc) + IPE manifold with Keihin CV carb. The reason I point this out here, is that these 600cc 741s are such nice and usable engines. Yes, a Chief may be better for long haul, two-up touring, but for running about town, twisty-road country rides and the odd club run (if you're in an odd club) a mildly tweaked 741 is actually a pretty good old motorcycle. Read more here
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Neil's 741 at Bonneville 2011
Photo by Pete Lotion
Update December 18, 2011. Temporarily sold out. If you want one in January or February 2012 order yours now. Update October 14, 2011. New small batch of CV manifolds being cast. If you know you are going to need one, order it now. I don't know when there will be more made. Update August 9, 2010. New batch of CV manifolds in production - should be finished soon. If you think you are going to need one - now or for a winter rebuild - it is a good idea to let me know asap. I am not sure when the next batch will be; probably not until 2011. Update March 7, 2010. Now only 2 CV-manifolds of the first batch left. Update September 8, 2009. The first small batch of these manifolds for Keihin CV carb on unmodified 741 cylinders has been cast now. There are only 4 or 5 of them left, so order one now if you need one for your winter rebuild! I don't know when more will be made. 

As you can read below, in the little development story, these manifolds will bolt on to your stock, unmodified 741 cylinders, and allow you to fit a Keihin CV carb without an adaptor. The manifolds come with new nuts and PEEK sealing cones - and carb rubber with stainless clips (not in the photo). Allow a week or two for machining (how's that for fresh? Your manifold isn't machined up until you order it!). P/N 741CVM, 2023 still available to order - ASK

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IPE 741/CV manifold kit with nuts, PEEK sealing cones, carb rubber and stainless clips - ready to bolt onto your stock, unmodified 741 cylinder nipples.
This, below, is from an earlier entry that I have moved up here together with the announcement, above, that these manifolds are ready now. Drawing shows the new manifold to allow a Keihin CV carb to go on a 741 without the use of adaptors between carb and stock manifold. This manifold looks sort of like the CV manifold I have for Chiefs, except it is in aluminum (the Chief manifold is satin nickel plated cast iron). This manifold will fit stock 741 cylinder nipples, nuts and sealing cones, and will bolt on without any machining operations - although you will need to tweak the carb a little. For more information on this (and some other interesting Indian stuff), visit Jim Mosher's very informative website.

I have jet kits and some other parts for the Keihin CV carbs, see the Chief page. 

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Manifold for Keihin CV carb on 741 with stock nipples.
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741 CV manifold pattern.
Update May 10, 2009. Here is the almost finished casting pattern for the 741 CV manifold. IPE logo to be glued on and then everything painted. Core box to the right of here shows internal shape of manifold. Stay tuned...

If you are interested in DIY aluminum casting, there's a great article on the VI here.

Click to view full-size Update June 7, 2009. Heres the latest casting test of the 741 CV manifold. Almost there now! 

The outside shape and finish is good (photo to the right of here), but the main runner needs to be extended a little bit. The hole (photo to the left) shows that the core halves match up reasonably well, but maybe a one-piece core would make things perfect? 

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If you are building a 741 (or post-1935 Sport Scout; the 1934 had the kickstarter mount in one piece with the transmission case - while it lasted) bobber or racer, you need one of these cool billet aluminum kickstarter mounts! Lots lighter (and you can hollow out the back of it, to make it even lighter) than the stock cast iron effort, and a bit better looking, too.

There is only one of these left (and I am not likely to have more anytime soon), so act now if you want it. P/N KIKMNT. Too late; gone to Finland!

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Aluminum kickstarter mount, 741 and Sport Scout.
The two most important books you will need for working on your 741 are the factory's military Operation and Maintenance Manual and the factory parts book. While IPE has these as print copies, they have gone through so many copy cycles that the pictures aren't too clear anymore (this goes for all these books I have seen from other dealers too). However, this CD has been scanned from virgin original books and the pictures are crystal clear. The CD is also usefully cheaper than the books  - and you can always print your own book from it! Update January 2012. Due to the development in exchange rates, and generally increasing costs, I was selling the last batch of these at a loss, so I've had to raise the price a bit. It would still be an invaluable help if it cost twice as much.
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741 Operation and Maintenance Manual and Parts List on CD.
I'll try to post a few pages from the CD here soon so you can see the quality for yourself.
Big and small parts are equally important, and here we are among the smallest. The tappet adjuster screw lock nuts on Scouts (all years use the same) are much the same as on Chiefs, only thinner. While the Chief nuts are freely available, sometimes it is hard to find the thin Scout version. You can use Chief nuts, but often there isn't room for the extra thickness so you have to file them down. IPE has the nuts in both thick and thin versions, in really good quality. P/N 612001 for Chief, P/N 16A56 for Scout, either one ASK. High quality adjusting screws, each, P/N 16A55 (same for Scout and Chief) ASK. Pushrods in various sizes are also avilable. Click to view full-size
IPE tappet nuts for Scout (left), and Chief (right).
If you want to make your 741 go a little faster, without going all the way into stroker territory, bigger 1-5/8" intake valves and big bore pistons is probably the combo that gives the most bang for your buck. The stock 1-1/2" valve size is fine for the exhaust side, stock springs, retainers etc can be used for both valves.

Hard chromed stainless 741 valves (prices each):

P/N 43680/1 Stock size in/ex Still available - ASK
P/N 43680/1B  Big diameter in Still available - ASK

Big Bore pistons, set of two with rings, pins and clips: 

P/N 75494B2 37"/600cc Still available - ASK

You will need to spend a little time fine-tuning the carb, possibly fitting a larger venturi to take full advantage of the bigger engine. An IPE Electronic Ignition kit will also help (like it does on all Indians!).The 76095J JAMES head gasket comes ready for the big pistons and valves. If you use another head gasket, check that everything clears. Also check the cylinder head for clearance. Sometimes the side of the big valve hits the head. You probably also want to change the gearing with the extra oomph. Sprockets from 14-26T are available, just ask. This is the first stage of 741 tuning. Actually, it might be the only step you need to take if what you are after is a a nice, usable bike with adequate power to keep up with city street, country road and slow-lane motorway traffic.

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Big-bore pistons and big intake valves from IPE. 

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JAMES head gasket for 741 with big pistons and valves. More info and prices on the JAMES Gaskets page

By the way, over-boring 741s is nothing new. I forget where I found it, but look at this cutting from The Motorcyclist in 1944 (click to enlarge), where someone asks how to get more speed from his new 741, and the great Indian racer Ed Kretz tells him to get some big pistons in it! Ed Kretz is an AMA hall-of-famer; click here to read a brief biography. He really was something. Click to view full-size
For your next tuning step, you might want to consider a bigger manifold. Not by any means essential, as a 600cc runs nicely with the stock manifold, but if you plan on developing the engine further, at some point it will need more intake flow. Here is a prototype manifold for big 741s (strokers or big bore). The main manifold runner is oval to make it fit between the cylinders. Note that this manifold needs larger nipples in the cylinders; see photo.

With this manifold you can run a Linkert M-741 with bigger venturi, or - my favorite - a Dell'Orto pumper carb with adapter, available from IPE as a kit (ask for details and price; there's a couple of pix of this manifold with Dell'Orto carbs on 741s here and here). The manifolds are temporarily sold out but a new batch will be ready soon, maybe even in bronze to match the Linkert if there is any interest in that? (Let me know)

The stock manifold nipples in the 741 cylinders are not very big, even when bored out to the limit, so you will have to use early Chief nipples and manifold nuts with the manifold above. 

Please note that this is not a bolt-on job, but requires some fairly accurate machining (which IPE can do for you if you can't do it yourself, or find a competent local machinist). Here is a photo to give you an idea of the difference between the stock 741 nipples and the bigger early Chief nipples.

For another option (CV carb on unmodified 741 cylinders), see above)

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Big 741 manifold from IPE (partially machined prototype). You can see one of these on an engine here.

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741 manifold nipples. Stock to the left, big one to the right.

All this go-faster stuff is not worth much if the lower end of the engine isn't right, though. As you probably know, the 741 main bearing housings can't be line honed because there is a lip in the case bore on the cam side. Not line honing is fine for tractors, but not so good for your zippy new Wonder Scout motor which needs everything in its lower end to be in line, parallel and at right angles (as the case may be). However, you can make the bore for the bearing housing a bit deeper, remove most of the lip, and fit one of IPE's nifty new bearing housings that will allow line honing (and is longer than the stock pinion housing). As you lose the stock crank locating washer at the bottom of the original bearing housing, alternative end location can now be by either the 1948-up Chief system (washer and circlip), or the much simpler solution of just making a spacer to go behind the pinion gear and having the cam side of the crank assy float in the case. Ask if you can't figure it out yourself. New bearing housing allowing line honing (fits stock 741 pinion shafts and IPE stroker pinion shafts for WL and XL flywheels), P/N 20B101U Not available any more. As the bearing housings are in stock with unfinished outer diameter (I like the case bores to be honed round before fitting new housings, so O/S is often needed), you can have them in other sizes besides stock. It might be self evident, but be aware that these bearing housings come with semi finished bore and need honing to final size. Click to view full-size
Pinion housing (right) has internal groove for P/N 50250 circlip and P/N 924014 washer as per 1948-up Chief (see text for alternative way of crank assy locating). Also in photo is an IPE stroker pinion shaft for WL flywheels (see stroker page) and a modern lipped seal replacing the stock felt seal and retainer for the pinion shaft. 

IPE has everything else you will need for your 741 engine lower end, and I will do my best to list everything here asap. If you need anything before I get around to the list, just send me an email.

Staying below for a while, the drive side main bearing housing is often problematic on 741s and Sport Scouts that have led a hard life. The bearing housing sits in a long "nose" on the drive side case, which has internal threads at the outer end for a lock nut to securely locate the housing and keep the rollers from falling out. These threads are often worn out, and it is not rare to see broken case noses. The best way to deal with this is to mill off the bad part of the case nose, and fit an IPE Nose Fix. The Nose Fix is a new bearing housing, with a modified outer end that replaces the end of the case nose (you machine off the bad outer part of the case nose). The NF is located from the inner end, like on Chiefs, with a thin lock nut inside the crank case. Like the pinion housing above, the Nose Fix bearing housing is also in stock with semi finished outer diameter, so you can get it in a custom O/S to match your cleaned up case bore. It will also need final internal honing to size. P/N 40872NF, Not available any more. The stock end nut, P/N 39471, will fit, but they are usually pretty worn, so you might want to get a new IPE nut with modern lipped seal (P/N 39471S) while you're at it, Not available any more-  these also fit stock case noses. Spare seals available, too. The inner locknut is a stock Chief item, P/N 28B161, still available for Chief use. Click to view full-size
IPE Nose Fix drive side bearing housing (center), 28B161 locknut (left) and 39471S outer nut with lipped seal (right).

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Fitted Nose Fix and outer nut with seal.

Valve spring covers for 741 are often hard to find. Like with the tappet nuts, Chief parts can be used, but the Chief covers are just that little bit bigger that you will get clearance problems with the cylinder base nuts and exhaust pipes (at the best of times there isn't much room on the cam side of any Indian v-twin engine, and the 741 is particulary cramped). IPE has chrome plated covers (without o-ring, just like the original covers), P/N 43262C, still available - ask , as well as these super cool stainless covers with o-ring sealing, P/N 43262SS, sold out for a set of 4 upper/lower covers. 

Also in the photo are stainless steel pushrod guides. While new cast-iron guides are available for Chiefs and (sometimes) for 101, as far as I know they are not being made new for 741. While the original pushrod guides can be honed to take O/S pushrods (I usually have most sizes of pushrods for Chief and Scout in stock), there is a limit to how many times you can do this. These stainless guides might come in handy then - or just if you want to put some beautiful parts on your engine, no excuses needed for that - this stuff is jewelry for boys! (or something). As with the stainless Chief guides, the stainless 741 guides have renewable bronze liners (there is a photo of these liners on the Chief page). Running these guides on a number of bikes over several years seem to indicate that the bronze liners last very well. P/N 41853SS, sold out 

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IPE stainless pushrod guides and valve spring covers.

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IPE stainless guides and covers with o-ring.

Oil filters are always a good idea, but they are usually not all that pretty, and the more oil lines and stuff, the more chances of leaks. One of the neatest setups ever is this filter that fits inside the tank on Chief, 741 and Sport Scout. It just slides over the return tube in the tank. If you look at the photo to the right, pretend that the red line across the threads on the return tube is the bottom of the tank. The black rubber on the end of the filter seals against the tube. You can still check that oil is returning; it bubbles nicely from the filter when everything is ok. To change the filter, you just pull it up by the little handle on top (see photo), after having drained the tank (the accumulated crud usually stays in the filter, but if a little falls out it is easy to flush out of the tank). P/N TNKFLT. Every Indian deserves one! Still available - EUR30.00 (EU), EUR24.00 (World) Click to view full-size
In-tank oil filter.
All Prices in Euros

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Update March 2024 Please go to the new IPE website: