2023 - I will try to clean up this page soon, and maybe move the sold-out
parts to some sort of "graveyard" page where pictures can still be seen
photos to enlarge
one of these in stock, and I am not sure if I can get more or what they
will cost. Kick starter crank, pedal and rubber for 101 Scout with
19T kick starter pinion. You will have to find/make the bolt for the pedal
yourself (or maybe I can find one).
P/N 35C29X Kick starter crank.
one of these in stock too, and I am not sure if I can get more or what
they will cost. Nice reproduction front fender/mud guard for 1922
Chief, where the front fork links pass through the fender. Maybe early
1923 Chiefs used this fender too, but you can see that on your front fork
The fender comes with front and rear mounting
stays. The rear is U-shaped as on so many other Indian fenders; front stay
is in two parts that go either side of the hole for the fork links. You
will have to drill the fender yourself when you have lined it up to fit
your Chief. SOLD.
just found a few of these nifty belt buckles that I forgot I had.
They were made in Australia some years ago, under license from the "new"
Indian company. They seem to be made from pewter, and the details are astonishingly
nice and clear .
I have 2 of the arrowhead ones, 1 of the
Indian script 4-cylinder one (top left in pic), 1 of the top right one,
and 1 of the same but with the text "1901 Centenary 2001" (I guess that
gives a clue to when they were made!). SOLD OUT.
you have a 1940 Sport Scout or Chief? If so, it isn't complete
without this faithful reproduction of the 1940-only Purolator Oil Canister!
It comes complete with a very nice Purolator
(<-- click to see decal), and details are just like the originals, as
far as I can judge. A neat addition to any 1940 Indian twin. I only have
one, but could probably get more if demand turns out to be overwhelming.
Available to order.
may have seen one of these cast aluminum tanks on the Chout,
or the supercharged 741 Bonneville racer.
Here's your chance to get one for your own Indian! The tanks are shaped
like the 101 tank (later Junior/Pony Scout tanks were the same shape as
101), except that there are gas/petrol filler caps on both sides (the extra
one can be cut off if you want to make a one-piece, 101-style tank). The
filler necks can be threaded for stock 101 caps. The width can be varied
for wider- or narrower-than-stock tanks. You can build it as a 101 tank
to go into a frame or fabricate and weld on back plates to make split
tanks for use on your 741, Sport Scout or late Chief. There are a couple
of Sport Scouts with (not cast, but the shape is the same) Junior tanks
These are raw castings and there is a lot
of work in making them into a finished tank. You will need to saw, grind,
drill, tap, fabricate, weld and polish.
These tanks can be cast to order, but this
set is for sale on behalf of a local (Denmark) customer, who sold his 741
before the tanks were finished. I am not sure what another set would cost,
but they won't be cheaper, so I suggest you jump at this offer if you want
a cast tank. Write me if interested and I will put you in touch with the
Cast aluminum 101 (or 741,
Sport Scout or Chief) tank halves.
Here is an earlier tank
half with the flange cut off (except for ears to hold it for drilling/tapping
etc). You can see the oil tank walls and internal reinforcements for mounting
Danish Indian Club launched the first 44 page, full color, English language,
issue of an annual International Indian News magazine in 2009 SOLD
The non-profit magazine is basically for
Indian clubs in various countries around the world to give a report once
a year of what they have been up to, and what they are planning in the
future. Most of the magazine copies have already been distributed to members
of the European Indian clubs. With my IPE hat on, I have offered to help
get magazines to folks outside Europe - or inside, but not in one of the
clubs - or whatever; anyone who would like a magazine is welcome!
They are sold at cost price + postage.
Payment by PayPal -
remember to include your name and address and write "magazine" in
the message box on the PayPal form. Magazine costs EUR 3,50. See approximate
exchange rates here.
Postage for one magazine in Europe is EUR 3,00. Postage for one magazine
to the Rest of the World is EUR 7,00, but I am going to subsidize that
If you want more than one magazine email
me at email@example.com
International Indian News
very nice saddle bags are based on the World War II US military
bags, but are slightly larger. Made from thick leather with reinforcements
on the back. Three buckles for the flap, and straps with buckles on the
ends for fastening the bags to the frame of the bike. The easiest way to
hang these bags on an Indian is probably from the luggage carrier. I have
special plates to fit to the cast iron luggage carrier, but if you don't
have one of these there are other ways of doing it. The bags are not ideal
for late model Chiefs (the exhaust gets in the way), but would fit nicely
on 741s, 1930's Chiefs, 101s and many other models. Only one set left.
The bags would benefit from oiling or
greasing to weatherproof them a bit, and I actually have some great leather
oil, made by Amish people (really). I got it a long time ago, and forgot
all about it until recently. I meant to make my own labels for the bottles,
but never got around to it. I have it in both a light (natural) color and
a darker one. The saddle of this
like the bags from new, before being oiled. It patinated very nicely and
the bags probably will too. If anyone is interested, I'll dig up this oil
and see what's left and what the price may be.
Beautifully made leather
saddle bags. Odd discoloration on inside of one flap is just on the inside
(I guess the leather came from a spotted cow, or whatever the technical
term may be!).
horn for a 1927 Scout (and short frame 1928). The open end is
meant to point back and down. It has a neat built-in choke, operated by
a lever on top, with three click stops; "choke", "start" and "open". It
could probably be adapted for other carbs. Outside diameter of the mounting
spigot is 41mm, the hole is 37mm. One only. P/N AIRHRN, SOLD
Air horn for your 1927 Scout,
or adapt for another carb?
old-school grease gun and grease nipples. Fits in most Indian toolboxes,
so you can keep your Indian greased up even if you are on the road! This
is an important point. Indians were meant to have their moving parts greased
well and often, and a nicely lubed-up Indian is a joy to operate, while
a dry and creaky one is not. It also won't last as long. The nose of this
grease gun fits the late model (from some time in the 1930s? I'll look
it up and post it here next time) grease nipples. P/N GRSGUN. SOLD
Also in the pix is
a neat adapter for the old Alemite nipples (used on 101s etc). Where
you just press the grease gun onto later (Zerk) nipples, the Alemites have
a head that the adapter slides onto. The adapter screws onto the grease
gun, so if you have both new (1940's) and old (1920's) Indians, you can
get by with one grease gun and an adapter. Adapter P/N ALADPT
SOLD OUT. I will
try to get more made, but not sure when or at what price.
Nickel plated Alemite
grease nipples for your 101 etc costs ASK.
Later model Zerk
grease nipples for your later model Indian costs ASK
each for the straight version, P/N 416002,
and same price each for the angled,
Grease gun, adapter and
Alemite nipples to the front,
Zerks in the background.
your own saddle with this nice seat pan. Pretty
authentic reproduction in what seems like real good quality. Sturdy front
and rear mounting points. You can also cut it down a bit for a slimmer
saddle, along the lines of the saddle on this (way cool!) Chief,
which was based on a pan like this. Only one left, but I could probably
get more. SOLD OUT.
old-school 6V hard-rubber battery. If you are running a 6V system,
it can be hard to find batteries with enough capacity (Ah). Just about
the only modern vehicles using 6V batteries are mopeds and small scooters,
and they usually have very small batteries. The 6V generators - especially
the pre-1948 3-brush setup, with its erratic charging - rely on the ability
of large batteries to boil off water at high charge rates and, short of
cutting down a 12V car battery (which can be done with good - if not exactly
pretty - results; ask for details if interested), the battery you see here
is about the only solution. Yes, I know about the sealed alarm backup batteries,
but they have an unfortunate tendency to die on you without warning, if
they don't explode from over-charging!
This battery is also a royal pain in the
er.. behind. They are traditional in every detail, the lead plates are
sealed in with asphalt at the top of the case. This stuff frequently cracks,
leaking acid all over you and your Indian, but is easy to fix (solding
iron easily re-melts the asphalt, sealing the cracks). The battery also
doesn't take and hold a charge as well as modern batteries, so in this
way it is also very much like the batteries your grandad struggled with.
For an Indian that is being used, the only
long-term fix, in my opinion, is to change to a 12V system with electronic
regulation, but you can get by with a 6V system and a battery like this
(and, preferably, an electronic regulator - or at the very least a mechanical
one; the pre-1948 3-brush and cutout system is hopeless for practical use).
Anyway, a traditional battery in every way. Only one left (after this I
will just shrug and suggest changing to 12V if you ask me what to do with
your 6V Indian!), so be quick if you insist on being hardcore old-school
with your charging system. Battery comes dry, for you to fill with acid.
6VBATT, SOLD OUT.
Old-school 6V battery.
Lid off showing vents and
cylinder heads for your 37"/600cc 101. These heads have all the same
advantages over the stock iron version as the ones below. There is one
neat detail I forgot to mention for the 1925 heads, that also goes for
these. They have a fairly deep recess over the pistons which is ideal for
the IPE stroker pistons. These pistons
"pop up" about 4 mm above the top of the cylinder, and stock 101 heads
usually need machining to accomodate this. These heads can usually get
by with a bit of grinding of the rounded corners of the recess (but do
check carefully that pistons don't hit). All aluminum heads need more frequent
tightening of the head bolts on first assembly than iron heads do, but
as long as you watch this it isn't a big problem. These heads take regular
14mm spark plugs, but there's room to enlarge the plug holes to 18mm if
you like. Last set, and I am not sure I am going to get any more of them.
37"/600cc 101 heads in aluminum.
cylinder heads for your 1925 Scout. These new heads are a lot lighter
than the cast iron originals, provide better engine cooling - and they
look cool too. If you just want the cooling without the looks, you could
always paint them black. Not drilled for primer cups (if they aren't there
they can't leak), but you could do that yourself if you want primer cups.
25D24A, set of 2. Last set in stock, but more (either cast iron or
aluminum) could be made if there is enough interest. SOLD.
Head gaskets, nuts and bolts, 18mm spark plugs etc also available. Sometimes
I even have primer cups.
1925 Scout heads in aluminum.
Virtual Indian T-shirts! Only a few left and it isn't likely that any
more will be made, so get one while you can. Only these sizes left: M (1)
and L (5). These shirts were printed in 2002 to help with the expenses
of uploading (which cost real money back in the days of the dial-up modem)
and hosting the Virtual
Indian web-magazine. P/N VISHRT. SOLD
OUT. If you want one of these, it
might be a good idea to get it together with a parts order to save on postage..
outer primary cover, 1944-48 (will fit other years too),
86769. Two of these on sale. Both of these are brand new, unused, quality
parts, although one of them has had a clutch nut (the part where the release
worm goes) trial fitted and removed again, scratching the bore up a bit,
though not enough that it has any functional implications. It is also a
little dirty (or you could say that it has a bit of patina!), but otherwise
as new. The other one is squeaky clean. First customer gets to choose.
Both have had new generator drive bushings fitted (which you get for free
as an extra little bonus). I have everything else you may need for the
primary drive of your Chief, just ask (see special offer on generator drive
shafts below). SOLD OUT. Still
available to order, so ask if you need one.
Chief outer primary cover.
have EUR1500+ for a Corbin for your Indian? Here is an alternative. Unfortunately
these neat electronic speedometers seem to have been discontinued,
but I have one left that has been test fitted but never actually used.
The speedo isn't a replica of any Indian model, but doesnt look too out
of place on an Indian that is actually being ridden. The speedo is fully
electronic, being driven off the small sensor, left in pic, which is clamped
onto a new left-side axle spacer and picks up a signal from a bolt head
or similar on the hub (you will have to devise this yourself, but the speedo
is easily programable within wide margins so almost anything goes). Button
on speedo face is for trip meter and a few other functions. Instructions
and wiring diagram included. Also in photo is a lightly modified 1938-47
instrument panel with a brand new 1942-46 ammeter. P/N SPDKIT. Regular
price for speedo, sensor, dash and ammeter is EUR615.00 (EU), EUR520.00
(World) - and I'll even throw in the custom made
stainless bracket in the photo! SOLD
(but I still have one of these speedos and a '38-47 instrument panel for
it). SOLD too
(the last one to Norway; the first went to Brazil). I don't think I am
going to have any more of these.
sensor, dash with ammeter and custom stainless instrument bracket. Test
fitted but never used.
filters are always a good idea, but they are usually not all that pretty,
and the more oil lines and stuff, the more chances of leaks. One of the
neatest setups ever is this filter that fits inside the tank on
Chief, 741 and Sport Scout. It just slides over the return tube in the
tank. If you look at the photo to the right, pretend that the red line
across the threads on the return tube is the bottom of the tank. The black
rubber on the end of the filter seals against the tube. You can still check
that oil is returning; it bubbles nicely from the filter when everything
is ok. To change the filter, you just pull it up by the little handle on
top (see photo), after having drained the tank (the accumulated crud usually
stays in the filter, but if a little falls out it is easy to flush out
of the tank). P/N TNKFLT. Every Indian deserves one! 2023
Still available :-) EUR30.00 (EU), EUR24.00 (World).
In-tank oil filter for Chief/741/Sport
those wanting a more elaborate solution, I have a few of these beautifully
made external Chief oil filter kits in stock. They clamp on to the
front frame down tube and sit nicely out of the way between the frame tubes.
The kit comes with everything you will need to fit them - even a tube bender!
(that's the trumpet shaped thingy to the left in the photo) Super slinky
black anodized aluminum - absolutely beautiful. Replacement filters can
come from your local car parts shop (there's a list of parts numbers for
suitable filters with the kit). P/N OLFLT1.
to order. (available to special order,
ask about price/delivery time)
Spin-on oil filter kit for
have a lot of James head gaskets for Sport Scouts in stock (I must
have thought that every Sport Scout in the world would need new head gaskets,
but apparently they don't - don't you people ride them out there?).
These gaskets seal really well (much better
than copper or fiber types), but you have to torque them down a couple
of times after fitting them. That is a good idea with any gasket, but particularly
important with these as the soft silicone beads settle down with first
use. Let the engine get warm, let it cool down again and torque the head
bolts down evenly. Repeat as necessary. P/N 75379J. Set of 2, SOLD
JAMES head gasket for Sport
front connection clamp assembly, P/N 237011, with P/N 42808
clevis, Chief 1946-53. You will need this to fit a sidecar to your Chief,
as there is no other good way of doing it. I don't think these are available
new at the moment, at least I don't have them new (except this single one
which is indeed brand new and never used). So if you plan to fit a sidecar
to your late Chief some time in the future, now may be the time to buy
this critical part, as who knows when they will be made again. My regular
price, including the clevis, used to be around EUR500 (EU), EUR400 (World),
but it can now be yours for half of that! SOLD
Sidecar front connection.
plate to enable you to fit a 1948-53 aluminum oil pump onto a pre-1948
cam cover. It is debatable if there is any good reason to do so if you
have a functioning 1938-47 cast iron pump, but if you don't have one, 48-53
aluminum pumps are available new, and this adapter plate will allow you
to fit one to your pre-48 Chief. You will also need a 1948-53 front camshaft
(P/N 769003) and, ideally, to mill off the thickness of the plate
from the back of the pump housing, but you could probably get by without
this last step. Arrow in photo shows how the plate seals off the back of
the pump against the smaller early cam cover. P/N OPADPT. ASK
Oil pump adapter plate.
a chromed-up pimpmobile of a Chief? Then you need one of these super shiny
chrome plated intake manifolds! (P/N 74062C) Another
"Genuine Indian Part" (i.e. made in India), they will need new PEEK sealing
cones before I can recommend them for actual use, ASK.
Peek sealing cones made to measure ASK
(they can be made for any V-Twin Indian manifold, not just Chiefs).
I also have nice new aluminum manifolds for Chiefs
in stock, complete with cadmium plated nuts and new PEEK cones. ASK,
as well as a special manifold allowing you to put a Keihin CV carb
on your Chief - SOLD OUT.
Chrome Chief manifold.
generator drive at primary chain case, Chief 1936-52, P/N 39324.
Brand new, unused, quality parts. I pushed the wrong button some years
ago and got 10 times as many as I needed! I still have a good stock left,
ASK As you can see in the photo, I
also have everything else you may need for the generator drive of your
Chief, just ask (OK, not all generator drive parts are in the photo, but
I've got the rest too!)
Generator drive shaft and
Taillight in polished aluminum (including rubber gasket, and there
is probably a bulb in there too), P/N BOBTLT. Would look good on
that bobbed rear fender.
In the same photo
you see these nifty Clear Timing Plugs, allowing you to strobe your
flywheels for spot-on ignition timing (works for Chiefs with timing plug
on drive side case between the cylinders, 741 and Sport Scouts of similar
vintage). You can see the timing marks through the plug without being drenched
in engine oil (if you haven't tried removing the timing plug from a running
engine you have no idea how much oil comes out), P/N TIMPLG. SOLD
OUT. I will try to get more made, but
not sure when or at what price.
Bobber tail light and see-through
your own 101 frame? This steering head and right hand side rear
axle plate is a good beginning. Not as crazy as it sounds; this 101/741
frame only has steering head and rear axle plates from a 101, the rest
is DIY. Both castings will need a little fettling (in particular
the rear axle plate), but if you are repairing a frame they are a lot better
than starting from scratch. Both are brand new reproduction parts, and
sound under the light coat of surface rust. Also
in photo is a brake pedal mounting, P/N 101BPC:
OUT. Steering head, P/N 101SHD:
Rear axle plate SOLD
101 frame castings.
new, but slightly rusty 101 frame castings. These are the two lower
front "knees", or front engine mounts, where the front down tubes join
the tubes under the engine. Bores for tubes are sized, but you will probably
need to fettle everything a bit, as well as drill some holes etc. Also
the two rear mountings for the footboard cleats, both of which need holes
drilled. Left or right side "knee", P/N 101EML/R, SOLD.
The footboard cleat mounts, P/N 101FBM, SOLD.
101 frame castings.
why not build an early Four frame, while you're at it? The rear
axle plates don't need explanations (except that I think the Wigwam used
the left hand one until the end of rigid Fours, which might be interesting
for someone restoring one of these). The little thingy top left is the
rear brake mount that goes on the lower, left hand rear frame tube (fits
both 401 and 402, I think), and the item on the right is a sidecar mount
for a 402 that goes on the cross tube in front of the engine. Rear axle
plates, SOLD OUT..
brake mount SOLD OUT.
mount SOLD OUT.
(No P/N for these, I haven't thought up a system for Four frame parts yet!).
Four cylinder frame castings.
spring covers are available for 101, 741 and Chief, in stainless steel
(for 101, 741 and Chief - see the relevant model pages), in nickel (101),
in chrome (101, 741 and Chief) and in cadmium (Chief). Just to add to the
confusion of finishes, here is a set of 101 covers with no finish at all!
Raw covers that you can have plated yourself, or just paint (or leave as
they are; "rust is the new chrome" as they say in hipster circles - or
was that last year?). P/N 16A59/60U. SOLD.
Set of 4 nickel plated 101 covers SOLD
101 valve spring covers
has most of the kickstarter parts you will ever need for your 101, 741
or Chief in stock, including arms, springs, ratchets, gears - and pedals.
This 1935-39 bicycle type pedal (P/N 39422) will fit most
other years too. All gone now, but can be special
ordered (email for price). Good quality,
not the usual chromed junk that barely survives the first kick. Bolt, pedal
bushing, spring washer and lock washer included. I'll make a list of all
the kickstarter parts asap, but if you need anything in the meantime, just
Bicycle style kicstarter
|More Stuff Coming Soon - Stay Tuned!
Prices in Euros
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For more information
on prices, ordering, payment,
general mail order info, look here