Last updated May 18 2023
The parts on this page are mostly one-offs (prototypes, leftovers from past projects ) or parts that I have a lot of in stock and can offer a discount on. Note that used parts have been moved to the For Sale section. This page will be periodically updated (new entries at the top of the page), so check back often and see if there should be a bargain here for you. I have more photos of most parts here (or could make some) if you want a closer look at something.
May 2023 - I will try to clean up this page soon, and maybe move the sold-out parts to some sort of "graveyard" page where pictures can still be seen for reference. Click photos to enlarge
Only one of these in stock, and I am not sure if I can get more or what they will cost. Kick starter crank, pedal and rubber for 101 Scout with 19T kick starter pinion. You will have to find/make the bolt for the pedal yourself (or maybe I can find one).

P/N 35C29X Kick starter crank. SOLD OUT.

Click to view full-size
Only one of these in stock too, and I am not sure if I can get more or what they will cost. Nice reproduction front fender/mud guard for 1922 Chief, where the front fork links pass through the fender. Maybe early 1923 Chiefs used this fender too, but you can see that on your front fork links. 

The fender comes with front and rear mounting stays. The rear is U-shaped as on so many other Indian fenders; front stay is in two parts that go either side of the hole for the fork links. You will have to drill the fender yourself when you have lined it up to fit your Chief.  SOLD.

Click to view full-size
I just found a few of these nifty belt buckles that I forgot I had. They were made in Australia some years ago, under license from the "new" Indian company. They seem to be made from pewter, and the details are astonishingly nice and clear .

I have 2 of the arrowhead ones, 1 of the Indian script 4-cylinder one (top left in pic), 1 of the top right one, and 1 of the same but with the text "1901 Centenary 2001" (I guess that gives a clue to when they were made!). SOLD OUT.

Click to view full-size
Do you have a 1940 Sport Scout or Chief? If so, it isn't complete without this faithful reproduction of the 1940-only Purolator Oil Canister! 

It comes complete with a very nice Purolator decal (<-- click to see decal), and details are just like the originals, as far as I can judge. A neat addition to any 1940 Indian twin. I only have one, but could probably get more if demand turns out to be overwhelming. Available to order.

Click to view full-size
You may have seen one of these cast aluminum tanks on the Chout, or the supercharged 741 Bonneville racer. Here's your chance to get one for your own Indian! The tanks are shaped like the 101 tank (later Junior/Pony Scout tanks were the same shape as 101), except that there are gas/petrol filler caps on both sides (the extra one can be cut off if you want to make a one-piece, 101-style tank). The filler necks can be threaded for stock 101 caps. The width can be varied for wider- or narrower-than-stock tanks. You can build it as a 101 tank to go into a frame or fabricate and weld on back plates to make split tanks for use on your 741, Sport Scout or late Chief. There are a couple of Sport Scouts with (not cast, but the shape is the same) Junior tanks here.

These are raw castings and there is a lot of work in making them into a finished tank. You will need to saw, grind, drill, tap, fabricate, weld and polish. 

These tanks can be cast to order, but this set is for sale on behalf of a local (Denmark) customer, who sold his 741 before the tanks were finished. I am not sure what another set would cost, but they won't be cheaper, so I suggest you jump at this offer if you want a cast tank. Write me if interested and I will put you in touch with the owner. SOLD.

Click to view full-size
Cast aluminum 101 (or 741, Sport Scout or Chief) tank halves.

Click to view full-size--Click to view full-size
Here is an earlier tank half with the flange cut off (except for ears to hold it for drilling/tapping etc). You can see the oil tank walls and internal reinforcements for mounting points.

The Danish Indian Club launched the first 44 page, full color, English language, issue of an annual International Indian News magazine in 2009 SOLD OUT.

The non-profit magazine is basically for Indian clubs in various countries around the world to give a report once a year of what they have been up to, and what they are planning in the future. Most of the magazine copies have already been distributed to members of the European Indian clubs. With my IPE hat on, I have offered to help get magazines to folks outside Europe - or inside, but not in one of the clubs - or whatever; anyone who would like a magazine is welcome! 

They are sold at cost price + postage. Payment by PayPal - remember to include your name and address and write "magazine" in the message box on the PayPal form. Magazine costs EUR 3,50. See approximate exchange rates here. Postage for one magazine in Europe is EUR 3,00. Postage for one magazine to the Rest of the World is EUR 7,00, but I am going to subsidize that a bit.

If you want more than one magazine email me at

Sample page

Sample page

International Indian News 2009

Sample page

Sample page

These very nice saddle bags are based on the World War II US military bags, but are slightly larger. Made from thick leather with reinforcements on the back. Three buckles for the flap, and straps with buckles on the ends for fastening the bags to the frame of the bike. The easiest way to hang these bags on an Indian is probably from the luggage carrier. I have special plates to fit to the cast iron luggage carrier, but if you don't have one of these there are other ways of doing it. The bags are not ideal for late model Chiefs (the exhaust gets in the way), but would fit nicely on 741s, 1930's Chiefs, 101s and many other models. Only one set left. SOLD. The bags would benefit from oiling or greasing to weatherproof them a bit, and I actually have some great leather oil, made by Amish people (really). I got it a long time ago, and forgot all about it until recently. I meant to make my own labels for the bottles, but never got around to it. I have it in both a light (natural) color and a darker one. The saddle of this 741 looked like the bags from new, before being oiled. It patinated very nicely and the bags probably will too. If anyone is interested, I'll dig up this oil and see what's left and what the price may be. Click to view full-size
Beautifully made leather saddle bags. Odd discoloration on inside of one flap is just on the inside (I guess the leather came from a spotted cow, or whatever the technical term may be!).
Cool air horn  for a 1927 Scout (and short frame 1928). The open end is meant to point back and down. It has a neat built-in choke, operated by a lever on top, with three click stops; "choke", "start" and "open". It could probably be adapted for other carbs. Outside diameter of the mounting spigot is 41mm, the hole is 37mm. One only. P/N AIRHRN, SOLD OUT. Click to view full-size-Click to view full-size-Click to view full-size
Air horn for your 1927 Scout, or adapt for another carb?
Authentic old-school grease gun and grease nipples. Fits in most Indian toolboxes, so you can keep your Indian greased up even if you are on the road! This is an important point. Indians were meant to have their moving parts greased well and often, and a nicely lubed-up Indian is a joy to operate, while a dry and creaky one is not. It also won't last as long. The nose of this grease gun fits the late model (from some time in the 1930s? I'll look it up and post it here next time) grease nipples. P/N GRSGUN. SOLD OUT.

Also in the pix is a neat adapter for the old Alemite nipples (used on 101s etc). Where you just press the grease gun onto later (Zerk) nipples, the Alemites have a head that the adapter slides onto. The adapter screws onto the grease gun, so if you have both new (1940's) and old (1920's) Indians, you can get by with one grease gun and an adapter. Adapter P/N ALADPT SOLD OUT. I will try to get more made, but not sure when or at what price.

Nickel plated Alemite grease nipples for your 101 etc costs ASK. P/N 26B242X.

Later model Zerk grease nipples for your later model Indian costs ASK each for the straight version, P/N 416002, and same price each for the angled, P/N 40701.

Click to view full-size
Grease gun, adapter and various nipples.

Click to view full-size
Alemite nipples to the front, Zerks in the background.

Make your own saddle with this nice seat pan. Pretty authentic reproduction in what seems like real good quality. Sturdy front and rear mounting points. You can also cut it down a bit for a slimmer saddle, along the lines of the saddle on this (way cool!) Chief, which was based on a pan like this. Only one left, but I could probably get more. SOLD OUT. Click to view full-size-Click to view full-size
Seat pan.
Authentic old-school 6V hard-rubber battery. If you are running a 6V system, it can be hard to find batteries with enough capacity (Ah). Just about the only modern vehicles using 6V batteries are mopeds and small scooters, and they usually have very small batteries. The 6V generators - especially the pre-1948 3-brush setup, with its erratic charging - rely on the ability of large batteries to boil off water at high charge rates and, short of cutting down a 12V car battery (which can be done with good - if not exactly pretty - results; ask for details if interested), the battery you see here is about the only solution. Yes, I know about the sealed alarm backup batteries, but they have an unfortunate tendency to die on you without warning, if they don't explode from over-charging!

This battery is also a royal pain in the er.. behind. They are traditional in every detail, the lead plates are sealed in with asphalt at the top of the case. This stuff frequently cracks, leaking acid all over you and your Indian, but is easy to fix (solding iron easily re-melts the asphalt, sealing the cracks). The battery also doesn't take and hold a charge as well as modern batteries, so in this way it is also very much like the batteries your grandad struggled with.

For an Indian that is being used, the only long-term fix, in my opinion, is to change to a 12V system with electronic regulation, but you can get by with a 6V system and a battery like this (and, preferably, an electronic regulator - or at the very least a mechanical one; the pre-1948 3-brush and cutout system is hopeless for practical use). Anyway, a traditional battery in every way. Only one left (after this I will just shrug and suggest changing to 12V if you ask me what to do with your 6V Indian!), so be quick if you insist on being hardcore old-school with your charging system. Battery comes dry, for you to fill with acid. P/N 6VBATT, SOLD OUT.

Click to view full-size
Old-school 6V battery.

Click to view full-size
Lid off showing vents and filling caps.

Aluminum cylinder heads for your 37"/600cc 101. These heads have all the same advantages over the stock iron version as the ones below. There is one neat detail I forgot to mention for the 1925 heads, that also goes for these. They have a fairly deep recess over the pistons which is ideal for the IPE stroker pistons. These pistons "pop up" about 4 mm above the top of the cylinder, and stock 101 heads usually need machining to accomodate this. These heads can usually get by with a bit of grinding of the rounded corners of the recess (but do check carefully that pistons don't hit). All aluminum heads need more frequent tightening of the head bolts on first assembly than iron heads do, but as long as you watch this it isn't a big problem. These heads take regular 14mm spark plugs, but there's room to enlarge the plug holes to 18mm if you like. Last set, and I am not sure I am going to get any more of them. P/N S375/6A, SOLD. Click to view full-size
37"/600cc 101 heads in aluminum.
Aluminum cylinder heads for your 1925 Scout. These new heads are a lot lighter than the cast iron originals, provide better engine cooling - and they look cool too. If you just want the cooling without the looks, you could always paint them black. Not drilled for primer cups (if they aren't there they can't leak), but you could do that yourself if you want primer cups. P/N 25D24A, set of 2. Last set in stock, but more (either cast iron or aluminum) could be made if there is enough interest. SOLD. Head gaskets, nuts and bolts, 18mm spark plugs etc also available. Sometimes I even have primer cups. Click to view full-size
1925 Scout heads in aluminum.
Vintage Virtual Indian T-shirts! Only a few left and it isn't likely that any more will be made, so get one while you can. Only these sizes left: M (1) and L (5). These shirts were printed in 2002 to help with the expenses of uploading (which cost real money back in the days of the dial-up modem) and hosting the Virtual Indian web-magazine. P/N VISHRT. SOLD OUT.  If you want one of these, it might be a good idea to get it together with a parts order to save on postage.. Click to view full-size
VI T-shirt.
Chief outer primary cover, 1944-48 (will fit other years too), P/N 86769. Two of these on sale. Both of these are brand new, unused, quality parts, although one of them has had a clutch nut (the part where the release worm goes) trial fitted and removed again, scratching the bore up a bit, though not enough that it has any functional implications. It is also a little dirty (or you could say that it has a bit of patina!), but otherwise as new. The other one is squeaky clean. First customer gets to choose. Both have had new generator drive bushings fitted (which you get for free as an extra little bonus). I have everything else you may need for the primary drive of your Chief, just ask (see special offer on generator drive shafts below). SOLD OUT. Still available to order, so ask if you need one. Click to view full-size
Chief outer primary cover.
Don't have EUR1500+ for a Corbin for your Indian? Here is an alternative. Unfortunately these neat electronic speedometers seem to have been discontinued, but I have one left that has been test fitted but never actually used. The speedo isn't a replica of any Indian model, but doesnt look too out of place on an Indian that is actually being ridden. The speedo is fully electronic, being driven off the small sensor, left in pic, which is clamped onto a new left-side axle spacer and picks up a signal from a bolt head or similar on the hub (you will have to devise this yourself, but the speedo is easily programable within wide margins so almost anything goes). Button on speedo face is for trip meter and a few other functions. Instructions and wiring diagram included. Also in photo is a lightly modified 1938-47 instrument panel with a brand new 1942-46 ammeter. P/N SPDKIT. Regular price for speedo, sensor, dash and ammeter is EUR615.00 (EU), EUR520.00 (World) - and I'll even throw in the custom made stainless bracket in the photo! SOLD (but I still have one of these speedos and a '38-47 instrument panel for it). SOLD too (the last one to Norway; the first went to Brazil). I don't think I am going to have any more of these. Click to view full-size
Electronic speedometer, sensor, dash with ammeter and custom stainless instrument bracket. Test fitted but never used.
Oil filters are always a good idea, but they are usually not all that pretty, and the more oil lines and stuff, the more chances of leaks. One of the neatest setups ever is this filter that fits inside the tank on Chief, 741 and Sport Scout. It just slides over the return tube in the tank. If you look at the photo to the right, pretend that the red line across the threads on the return tube is the bottom of the tank. The black rubber on the end of the filter seals against the tube. You can still check that oil is returning; it bubbles nicely from the filter when everything is ok. To change the filter, you just pull it up by the little handle on top (see photo), after having drained the tank (the accumulated crud usually stays in the filter, but if a little falls out it is easy to flush out of the tank). P/N TNKFLT. Every Indian deserves one! 2023 Still available :-) EUR30.00 (EU), EUR24.00 (World) Click to view full-size
In-tank oil filter for Chief/741/Sport Scout.
For those wanting a more elaborate solution, I have a few of these beautifully made external Chief oil filter kits in stock. They clamp on to the front frame down tube and sit nicely out of the way between the frame tubes. The kit comes with everything you will need to fit them - even a tube bender! (that's the trumpet shaped thingy to the left in the photo) Super slinky black anodized aluminum - absolutely beautiful. Replacement filters can come from your local car parts shop (there's a list of parts numbers for suitable filters with the kit). P/N OLFLT1. Available to order. (available to special order, ask about price/delivery time) Click to view full-size
Spin-on oil filter kit for Chief.
I have a lot of James head gaskets for Sport Scouts in stock (I must have thought that every Sport Scout in the world would need new head gaskets, but apparently they don't - don't you people ride them out there?). 

These gaskets seal really well (much better than copper or fiber types), but you have to torque them down a couple of times after fitting them. That is a good idea with any gasket, but particularly important with these as the soft silicone beads settle down with first use. Let the engine get warm, let it cool down again and torque the head bolts down evenly. Repeat as necessary. P/N 75379J. Set of 2, SOLD OUT. 

Click to view full-size
JAMES head gasket for Sport Scout.
Sidecar front connection clamp assembly, P/N 237011, with P/N 42808 clevis, Chief 1946-53. You will need this to fit a sidecar to your Chief, as there is no other good way of doing it. I don't think these are available new at the moment, at least I don't have them new (except this single one which is indeed brand new and never used). So if you plan to fit a sidecar to your late Chief some time in the future, now may be the time to buy this critical part, as who knows when they will be made again. My regular price, including the clevis, used to be around EUR500 (EU), EUR400 (World), but it can now be yours for half of that! SOLD Click to view full-size
Sidecar front connection.
Adapter plate to enable you to fit a 1948-53 aluminum oil pump onto a pre-1948 cam cover. It is debatable if there is any good reason to do so if you have a functioning 1938-47 cast iron pump, but if you don't have one, 48-53 aluminum pumps are available new, and this adapter plate will allow you to fit one to your pre-48 Chief. You will also need a 1948-53 front camshaft (P/N 769003) and, ideally, to mill off the thickness of the plate from the back of the pump housing, but you could probably get by without this last step. Arrow in photo shows how the plate seals off the back of the pump against the smaller early cam cover. P/N OPADPT. ASK Click to view full-size
Oil pump adapter plate.
Building a chromed-up pimpmobile of a Chief? Then you need one of these super shiny chrome plated intake manifolds! (P/N 74062C) Another "Genuine Indian Part" (i.e. made in India), they will need new PEEK sealing cones before I can recommend them for actual use, ASK. Peek sealing cones made to measure ASK (they can be made for any V-Twin Indian manifold, not just Chiefs). I also have nice new aluminum manifolds for Chiefs in stock, complete with cadmium plated nuts and new PEEK cones. ASK, as well as a special manifold allowing you to put a Keihin CV carb on your Chief - SOLD OUT.  Click to view full-size
Chrome Chief manifold.
Shaft, generator drive at primary chain case, Chief 1936-52, P/N 39324. Brand new, unused, quality parts. I pushed the wrong button some years ago and got 10 times as many as I needed! I still have a good stock left, ASK As you can see in the photo, I also have everything else you may need for the generator drive of your Chief, just ask (OK, not all generator drive parts are in the photo, but I've got the rest too!) Click to view full-size
Generator drive shaft and other parts.
Cool Bobber Taillight in polished aluminum (including rubber gasket, and there is probably a bulb in there too), P/N BOBTLT. Would look good on that bobbed rear fender. SOLD OUT.

In the same photo you see these nifty Clear Timing Plugs, allowing you to strobe your flywheels for spot-on ignition timing (works for Chiefs with timing plug on drive side case between the cylinders, 741 and Sport Scouts of similar vintage). You can see the timing marks through the plug without being drenched in engine oil (if you haven't tried removing the timing plug from a running engine you have no idea how much oil comes out), P/N TIMPLG. SOLD OUT. I will try to get more made, but not sure when or at what price.

Click to view full-size
Bobber tail light and see-through timing plugs.
Building your own 101 frame? This steering head and right hand side rear axle plate is a good beginning. Not as crazy as it sounds; this 101/741 frame only has steering head and rear axle plates from a 101, the rest is DIY.  Both castings will need a little fettling (in particular the rear axle plate), but if you are repairing a frame they are a lot better than starting from scratch. Both are brand new reproduction parts, and sound under the light coat of surface rust. Also in photo is a brake pedal mounting, P/N 101BPC: SOLD OUT. Steering head, P/N 101SHD: SOLD OUT. Rear axle plate SOLD OUT Click to view full-size
101 frame castings.
More new, but slightly rusty 101 frame castings. These are the two lower front "knees", or front engine mounts, where the front down tubes join the tubes under the engine. Bores for tubes are sized, but you will probably need to fettle everything a bit, as well as drill some holes etc. Also the two rear mountings for the footboard cleats, both of which need holes drilled. Left or right side "knee", P/N 101EML/R, SOLD. The footboard cleat mounts, P/N 101FBM, SOLD. Click to view full-size
101 frame castings.
Hey, why not build an early Four frame, while you're at it? The rear axle plates don't need explanations (except that I think the Wigwam used the left hand one until the end of rigid Fours, which might be interesting for someone restoring one of these). The little thingy top left is the rear brake mount that goes on the lower, left hand rear frame tube (fits both 401 and 402, I think), and the item on the right is a sidecar mount for a 402 that goes on the cross tube in front of the engine. Rear axle plates, SOLD OUT.. Rear brake mount SOLD OUT. Sidecar mount SOLD OUT. (No P/N for these, I haven't thought up a system for Four frame parts yet!). Click to view full-size
Four cylinder frame castings.
Valve spring covers are available for 101, 741 and Chief, in stainless steel (for 101, 741 and Chief - see the relevant model pages), in nickel (101), in chrome (101, 741 and Chief) and in cadmium (Chief). Just to add to the confusion of finishes, here is a set of 101 covers with no finish at all! Raw covers that you can have plated yourself, or just paint (or leave as they are; "rust is the new chrome" as they say in hipster circles - or was that last year?). P/N 16A59/60U. SOLD. Set of 4 nickel plated 101 covers SOLD OUT Click to view full-size
101 valve spring covers (unplated).
IPE has most of the kickstarter parts you will ever need for your 101, 741 or Chief in stock, including arms, springs, ratchets, gears - and pedals. This 1935-39 bicycle type pedal (P/N 39422) will fit most other years too. All gone now, but can be special ordered (email for price). Good quality, not the usual chromed junk that barely survives the first kick. Bolt, pedal bushing, spring washer and lock washer included. I'll make a list of all the kickstarter parts asap, but if you need anything in the meantime, just ask. Click to view full-size
Bicycle style kicstarter pedal.
More Stuff Coming Soon - Stay Tuned!
All Prices in Euros

Ordering or questions:

For more information on prices, ordering, payment,
shipping and general mail order info, look here


stats for wordpress