Last updated May 27, 2013
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Index of New Parts (so far), in alphabetical order. Fat blue text links to parts on this page. Parts with fat black text are on other pages (click thin blue links to go there).

741 manual and parts book on CD (741 page).
Battery mat (all models).
Bearing housings in custom sizes.
Books for early models (101 page)
Bosch magneto parts (101).
Breather valve (Chief and other models).
Chopper Linkert cable kit (most models).
Cloth-covered wire.
Clutch for 1920-27 Scout and Super-X. 
Custom saddle bracket.
Cylinders (Chief page).
Drive side bearing Nose Fix (741 and Sport Scout).
Engine repair work.
Oil and fuel line fittings for 101 etc (101 page).
Floats for Schebler and Linkert carbs, cork and closed-cell foam.
Gaskets for 101 and 1920-27 Scout (101 page).
Handlebar parts (101 page).
Hedstrom crankpin.
Internal throttle grip.
New James gaskets (James page).
Jockey shifters (Chief page).
K&N air filters (1940-53).
Keihin CV manifold (Chief).
Keihin CV manifold for 741 (741 page).
Keihin CV jet kit and parts (Chief page).
Leaf spring forks (Chief page).
Manifold (Chief page).
Needles for Schebler DLX carbs (101 page).
Oil filters (Chief & 741 pages).
PEEK manifold sealing cones (all models).
Pinion housing for line honing (741 and Sport Scout).
Points for Bosch magneto (101 page).
Powerplus muffler.
Prince crankpin, pinion- and drive shafts.
Pushrod guides, stainless (741)
Pushrod guides, stainless (Chief)
Quick Drain oil valve (Chief etc).
Riders Handbook, new edition (Chief). 
Shifter knobs (Chief page).
Stroker Scout parts (stroker page).
Taper roller st/hd bearing kit.
Tappet adjusting nuts (741 page).
T-Shirts, Land Speed Racing.
Valve covers, stainless (101).
Valve covers, stainless (741).
Valve covers, s/s (Chief).
Valve guide seals (Chief).
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

I am slowly working my way through the backlog of parts that haven't yet been posted here - and new parts are being added to the IPE range all the time too! But here's a selection (there's more new parts on the Chief, 741 and 101 pages). More will be added on a regular basis.--
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Not really new parts, but something I have kind of neglected to point out. A seldomly realized fact is that old Indian crank case bearing bores are usually oval and/or tapered, and need to be made round and good again before it makes any sense to fit new bearing housings. This also goes, maybe even more so, for connecting rods. So - for a serious repair - the stock size of bearing housings won't actually fit the way they are supposed to. Some suppliers have a few fixed-size oversize bearing housings. This means that you will have to aim for one of these when reparing your crank cases. As far as I know IPE is the only place that routinely makes bearing housings and rod races to measure

Raw, heat treated bearing housing blanks are in stock, being ground to order to outside diameter to fit your repaired cases. This may make them a bit more expensive, but it is probably the last time you are going to do this, so you might as well do it the right way! 
 
Full list of IPE Custom Size Bearing Housings and Rod Races coming soon - meanwhile, ask if you need anything.

If you are not sure how to go about repairing your cases, email me. IPE can also do it for you - as well as any other engine repair work. 
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"Nose Fix" drive side repair bearing housing, and Sportster-flywheel stroker pinion housing, for 741 and Sport Scout in custom oversizes to fit a customer's (hi Brent!) rebored cases. 

IPE also has pinion- and drive shafts, crank pins and primary drive intermediate gear shafts (for geared-primary models). Full list coming soon. 

Parts like cam follower pivot pins for Chief and Scout are almost always ground to measure, based on the cleaned-up hole size of your followers. Pushrods are usually in stock in most oversizes. For more oddball stuff we might have to wait for a batch of production parts to go to heat treatment for your request to be economical. But, with a little patience, most things are possible

Actually, engine repair work is another IPE specialty I have neglected to point out. 

I will try to start  a new page on this website soon, dedicated to engine work. Both about what I can offer and, hopefully, also enough information and inspiration for anyone, thinking about having a go at rebuilding their Indian engine, to feel comfortable about it. On the About IPE page, there's a little about my general take on this.

You can see a bit of IPE's engine work on the Salt Cracker 741 racer page  All engine work and parts on this bike - apart from the blower stuff and cosmetics - came from IPE. 

With my ace machinist, IPE can do anything that may need doing when it comes to Indian engines (including centrifugal casting of white metal bearings for Fours, but more about this another time). Typical Indian V-twin engine repair jobs include:

Connecting rod rebuilds; straigtening, honing eyes back to round, fitting new rod races (restoring the end play between rods to what it should be) and pin bushings, and honing these to fit your new crank- and piston pins.

Crank case repairs; welding and machining, thread repair, gasket surfaces restored, line boring bearing bores, fitting new bearing housings and line honing these to fit your new pinion- and drive shafts. Cam bushings, push rod guides (honed for O/S push rods) and cam followers (honed for new pivot pins, new pins fitted to cases, rollers and rivets changed) can be done at the same time.

Cylinder rebuilds, boring, honing to fit your new pistons, valve guides and -seats rebuilt. Fin welding repairs as needed, too.

Flywheel rebuilds, balancing to your new pistons, setting rod end play between flywheels, assembling and aligning the flywheels, ready to slip into your cases. An example here (flywheels for racing Chout).
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A set of sorry 1937 Sport Scout cases in for repair. Apart from the broken drive side bearing nose, the case was also cracked around the pinion side bearing housing. There's a detail pic of that here. Ouch!

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Same cases with Nose Fix drive side bearing, and the pinion side repaired, and converted to the 1948-style "straight through" system that allows line honing of the bearings housings. The owner wanted to deal with the cam bushings, cam follower pivots and push rod guides himself. IPE welcomes such cooperative part-rebuilds, and I will help with hints and tips if there is something you want to have a go at yourself.

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This Chief cylinder got a new nipple + PEEK manifold sealing cones..

This nifty Quick Drain valve will make oil changes fun and easy, instead of the usual oily mess. Fitting on the left in photo screws into your oil tank (late Chief, 741 etc) instead of the drain plug. A spring loaded valve stays closed, until you stick in the little T-shaped handle with the hose on the end and twist it, locking it in the fitting and pressing the valve open at the same time. Point the hose somewhere convenient first. After the oil has drained, just un-twist the handle/hose, refill tank (after having changed the oil filter if you run one - and if you don't, why not?), and be on your merry way. P/N QUICKY. EUR50.00 (EU), EUR40.00 (World).
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Quick drain valve.
1920 Powerplus mufflers are no longer available, but I am leaving the photo here as reference. Has the correct cast part with 36mm holes for front pipes. May fit earlier models too (I am not really up to speed on the intricacies of the PP, but someone will no doubt enlighten me; I will post any new info here). Not available anymore. The person making these for me has retired and isn't going to make any more. No front exhaust pipes either. This is a reminder to get special parts like this while you can. You never know when it will be too late. See also 101 exhaust system on the 101 page.
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Powerplus muffler.
Did your Hedstrom model wear out its crankpin in only 99 years? No reply from the factory warranty department? (try telegraphing "Hendian, London" in case you bought it through the UK agent). Luckily, IPE has new crankpins for 1912-15 Hedstrom big twins and singles. P/N D175. EUR125.00 (EU), EUR100.00 (World). Rod races available to order. P/N HEDRRC. EUR165.00 (EU), EUR132.00 (World). Please note that this requires machining of the rods, as the rollers run directly in hardened tracks in the rods originally. Races must be honed to size after fitting.

Drive shaft for 1914-15 models is around .81" (20.6mm) in diameter. The Prince drive shaft below is almost identical, and can be used. The earlier models had thinner shafts

The pinion shaft, with its integral pinion, is difficult and expensive to make, and 10 firm orders with a deposit are needed before a batch can be produced. The diameter of these also changed around 1914, I think. Roughly estimated price EUR300.00 (EU), EUR240.00 (World). Email me if interested.
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Hedstrom crankpin.
 
Orders needed for production of Hedstrom pinion shafts as of December 27, 2011 = 10
IPE also has flywheel shafts for your 1925-28 Prince single. Sold as a set of 3 (crankpin, drive shaft and pinion shaft). If you need just one of them that would probably be possible too, though. Nuts, keys and the other necessary small parts are also available, but not - at the moment - very much else for Prince, which is a pity as they are cool little bikes. But the more you ask for Prince stuff the bigger the chance more parts will be made. P/N PRSHFT. EUR300.00 (EU), EUR240.00 (World).
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Prince crankpin, drive- and pinion shafts.
Floats for Schebler and Linkert carbs can be a problem. Both originally had laquered cork floats. For many years you could only get soldered brass floats for Linkerts and, as these are much heavier than the original cork floats, it is hard to get the correct float level (1/4", or 6mm, in most cases - with brass you are at 5/16" to 3/8", or 8-10mm). This can seriously affect your enjoyment of your Indian. 

I have old-school cork floats for Schebler H (temporarily sold out, so not in the photo), Schebler DLX and Linkert (see part numbers under photo). EUR30.00 (EU), EUR24.00 (World).

However - and please note this carefully - modern gasoline or petrol is very hard on all kinds of laquer. As the formulation of the gas changes with the season and the country (and sometimes seemingly for no clear reason at all) you may have great luck with a traditional cork float one day just to have it shrivel up and die on you next time you fill the tank. 

The permanent fix is the black closed-cell foam floats also in the photo. These are as light as cork, but resistant to all known forms of modern gas, so you can get the correct float height to let your Schebler or Linkert work as it should. The closed-cell foam will not "suck in" gas (become gas logged) either. These floats are made in small batches or, in some cases, to order, and may not always be in stock for all models, so order early. 

Available for Linkert (see part numbers under photo to the right of here). EUR65.00 (EU), EUR52.00 (World) and for Schebler H and DLX (various models, please give detals when ordering) EUR80.00 (EU), EUR64.00 (World)

If you insist, I also have brass floats for Linkerts. P/N 102447BEUR55.00 (EU), EUR44.00 (World).
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Cork Floats
Schebler H: P/N N1032C
Schebler DLX: P/N S914C
Linkert: P/N 102447C

Foam Floats
Schebler H: P/N N1032F
Schebler DLX: P/N S914F
Linkert: P/N 102447F

Handling and fitting instructions for Schebler and Linkert foam floats.

Float needles and seats, levers and other carb float related parts for Schebler DLX and Linkert are also available. Not much is available for Schebler H, though, but ask if you need anything and I shall see what I can do. Maybe I will even find time, one day, to make a carb page with all the parts...

Not actually for sale by IPE, but I thought I'd post these nifty T-shirts here anyway. Both can be bought on Lars Nielsen's "Salt Cracker" Indian Land Speed Racing project page, which is hosted by IPE since I am also one of the sponsors of this noble endeavour (as far as we know, Lars is the first rider from Denmark to bring a bike all the way to the salt - and an Indian at that!). The shirt saying "Salt Cracker" is being sold to help raise funds for Lars' bike build and trip to Bonneville later this year. The other shirt, with the "Dream Catcher" streamliner on it, is sold to help raise funds for Rick "Rocky" Dillinger's Indian powered streamliner. To read more about Dream Catcher, go to Rocky's Iron Wigwam website. There is also a great story in the 2008 VI on how the first trip to Bonneville went for the Dream Catcher crew. And Lars' Salt Cracker page, with the ongoing story of how his bike is being built, is here. Please support these great people if you can - and get some really neat T-shirts at the same time! Go here to buy a shirt (or two).

There's also a few VI shirts left (see Special Offers page).
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Dream Catcher Indian Land Speed Racing T.
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Salt Cracker Indian Land Speed Racing T.
PEEK is a wonderful space-age hard and heat resistant plastic material that does what the brass of original Wigwam manifold sealing cones don't. Seal, that is! Brass work hardens and the harder it becomes, the tighter the hapless Indian owner tweaks his manifold nuts in a hopeless attempt to cure his manifold of the leaks that are so typical of this system, and responsible for so many hard-starting, hot-running and generally miserable Indians. Sorry about the lyrical intro, but this stuff really works.

Pioneered by Cotten of Liberty Motorcycle Specialties, and now used around the world, PEEK has turned out to be THE fix for leaky Indian manifolds. Finished cast PEEK sealing cones are now available. The problem with that is that not two old - or maybe even new reproduction - Indian manifolds are the same size, and they are frequently so chewed up by excessive nut-tightening that they need to be cut smooth again, making them further undersize. The sealing cones rely on a tight fit to do their job, so one size does not fit all. I am not saying this to badmouth the cast cones (they are very nicely made, they just don't fit all manifolds), and if you have a new manifold that fit the cast cones snugly, I suggest you go with these, as they are cheaper than the custom cut version.

IPE cuts PEEK cones to the actual size of your manifold. If you have access to a lathe, cleaning up the ends of your manifold is not a big job. If not, IPE can do it for you and cut cones to fit. Peek cones can be reused many times.

Order P/N 38125P for Chief 1936-52.
Order P/N 326B22P for 101 and 741.
Order P/N 40165P for Sport Scout 1936-42.
And remember that I need an accurate diameter measurement of the ends of your (fresh or cleaned-up) manifold - or, better, the manifold itself - to be able to make them the right size. Set of 2: EUR100.00 (EU), EUR80.00 (World).
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A small selection of manifolds having had their ends cleaned up (lathe cut back to cylindrical and smooth), and PEEK cones cut to fit at IPE. This can be done on most Indian V-Twin manifolds, and is a huge improvement over the stock brass cones. If you lathe cut your manifold yourself, you can get an idea from the photo of the required finish and degree of accuracy (both need to be very good). In case you wonder what the aluminum manifold to the right is, the answer is a Chief manifold cut about to fit modified 741 cylinders (and a BIG carb).
 
Many (many!) Indians suffer from smal or big manifold leaks, and the consequences range from hard starting to complete meltdown. There is a good VI article by Cotten here on testing for manifold leaks. Do yourself (and not least your Indian) a favor and read it. Please?

All Prices in Euros

Ordering or questions: info@indianpartseurope.com 

   For more information on ordering, shipping, payment and general mail order info, look here

More manifold stuff. This one is a custom manifold to fit a Keihin CV carb on your 1940-53 Chief. The Keihin (which came stock on most of the opposition's models from the 1990's until fuel injection took over recently), has turned out to work pretty good on both Chiefs and Scouts. Jim Mosher has done a lot of research into this, which you can read about here. Jim has various kits and parts for the CV. IPE has some parts too, including jet kits, see the Chief parts page. These manifolds, which eliminate adapters and their potential leaks, are satin nickel plated, and come with chrome or cadmium plated nuts and custom cut PEEK cones, ready to bolt on. They may be useful for fitting different carbs too (Mikuni?). If you want to look into this, the outside diameter of the carb end of the manifold is about 45.5mm and the hole a little less than 40mm. Not available anymore. Again, if you see parts you know you are going to need, get them while you can. You never know when it will be too late. If there is enough interest, I may conside making a few of them in aluminum (like the 741 CV manifolds). Let me know if you need one...
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Manifold for Keihin CV carb on Chief.
If you want something a bit more sophisticated than the stock throttle grip, this neat internal throttle setup might be the ticket. Apart from working smoother than anything but a really well fettled and lubed stock throttle, this one also has a bit more travel which can be very useful if you run something like a Dell'Orto, Mikuni or Keihin CV carb. Of course it is also designed for "soft" modern control cable (which all of these carbs use), and while you can convert the stock trottle to modern cable, this one comes already converted. Its main justification might howver be if you want to fit different handlebars to your Indian and don't want to have to work on the end to take a stock Indian throttle grip (if you want to do that, I have all the parts you will need, but that's another story). To fit the new thottle grip, you cut about 4" (or 100mm) - but read the instructions first! - off your chosen handlebars and fasten the throttle grip with a set screw (or a blob of weld). If you want to use Indian rubber grips, you may have to weld on a bit of tube to extend the throttle (or cut down the rubber). P/N INTHR1. EUR165.00 (EU), EUR132.00 (World).
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Modern internal throttle from IPE.
 
 

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Original Chopper Throttle kit from IPE. Wow! Well, maybe not so many Indian Choppers around these days, but this nifty little kit was made back in the day for those who wanted to combine a modern throttle and soft control cable with their old Linkert carb (Cotten at Liberty Motorcycle Specialties in Illinois, USA, is the world's go-to guy for Linkert and Schebler rebuilds; if your Linkert needs work contact him on liberty@npoint.net). I guess this kit works even if your Indian isn't really a chopper and you just want to run a Linkert with modern throttle and cable. Genuine New Old Stock. P/N CHOP1. EUR12.50 (EU), EUR10.00 (World).
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Chopper throttle kit!
Here's some nice shiny stainless steel parts from IPE -
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Stainless valve spring covers and pushrod guides for 1940-53 Chief - see the Chief page.
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Stainless taper roller steering head bearings for 101, more on the 101 page.
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Stainless valve spring covers and pushrod guides are also available for 741 - see the 741 page.
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Stainless valve covers for 101 - see the 101 page.
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The Wigwam never really came up with a great engine (crank case) breathing system. On the Sport Scouts is seems they tried something new every year. On the Chief they stuck with the breather tube on the cam cover, supplying different breather disc valves according to how fast the customer planned to go (the difference was whether there was a hole in the disc, allowing air back into the engine when the pistons went up, lessening the vacuum in the cases, and the size of these holes). In practical terms, the stock breather system (no matter which disc you use, but if you must have a stock system use the disc with no hole) is not enough for modern traffic. Not enough air can get out, resulting in pressurized crank cases and oily Indians. The first serious modern attempt to fix this was the Moto Valve, presented on the VI back in 1999. This went a long way to solve the problem. Later came various adaptations of the "KrankVent", used on the opposition's bikes (you know, the "Pigs", or whatever it is they call them). These work really well, but they can be a bit noisy (not the pigs, the KVs). The latest is more or less a black plastic version of the KV, which also works well, and doesn't make any noise. For a Chief you just fit it on the end of the stock cam cover breather tube (coupling hose included in kit), after having removed the stock breather disc (new gasket also included in kit). The plastic valve will hide under your chain/kicker, and not look too out of place. On a 741 you can also fit it to the stock breather tube, after having removed the disc. I also have adapters to fit it in the drive side timing hole if anyone needs that. Plastic breather no longer available - aluminum KrankVent kits in stock. P/N BRTVLV. EUR125.000 (EU), EUR96.00 (World).
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Plastic breather valve no longer available. I am going back to the aluminum Krank Vents. Pictures and details soon, but ask if you need one before I get to it. The fitting details remain the same.
 
 

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See above..
 

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Know your Indian! IPE has both the original 1951 Wigwam issue Riders Instruction Book (P/N INSTBK1), and an updated version by Mike Tomas (P/N INSTBK2). Both are neat and useful, probably with the new edition having the edge in usefulness. Mainly for late Chief, but much of it applies to all Indians. Old book EUR12.50 (EU), EUR10.00 (World). New book EUR20.00 (EU), EUR16.00 (World). IPE also has pretty much any other Indian parts book or manual you will ever need, either in stock or to order. I will try to make a list soon.
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Old and new Rider's Instruction Books.
Valve guide seals on Indians? Yes, it actually makes sense. Indian valve guides tend to wear out fast, and they often pass a lot of oil into the combustion chambers where it builds up on the pistons, and sometimes comes loose and scratches up the cylinder walls. Several well-known long-distance Indian riders (among them Dave Kilgore) have used these seals for years with very good results. I haven't tried them myself, but will be fitting them in 4 or 5 Chief engines for the 2009 season, and will try to report back next time one of these engines is torn down for inspection. The seals are made of rubber with a spring clip and teflon liner (which doesn't stop the oil from getting into the guide, merely meters it in reasonable quantities rather than the usual gush). They fit nicely on stock 1938-53 and most after market Chief valve guides. P/N VGSEAL. Set of 4 EUR16.00 (EU), EUR12.80 (World).
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Teflon-lined valve guide seals from IPE (who also has these super nice hard-chromed stainless Chief valves and really good cast iron guides for your 1938-53 Chief!)
Here's some nifty new Scout parts from IPE -
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KING clutch kit for 1920-27 Scout - will also fit Super-X - more on the KING Clutch page.
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Parts for Bosch model D magneto/generator, more on the 101 page.
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Pinion side bearing housing for line honing - more on the 741 page.
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"Nose Fix" for broken 741 drive side bearing housings - see 741 page.
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IPE also has traditional cloth-covered wire in a selection of becoming colors. Pretty good ready-made wiring harnesses for most late model Indians are available (also from IPE), but as far as I know nobody makes anything for 101s and other early models (which is what I mainly use it for). I will try to get my crayons out and draw a wiring diagram for the 101 soon, but if you need it before I get around to it just email me. Anyway, cloth covered wire, P/N CLWIR, in the colors you see in the photo, which is what I have in stock at the moment, costs EUR3.00 (EU), EUR2.40 (World) per meter (about 3 ft). I forgot to take a photo, but I also have black cloth-covered spark plug wire (modern isolated copper-core wire inside), P/N CLPLW, EUR5.00 (EU), EUR4.00 (World) per meter.
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Cloth-covered wire from IPE (It's modern stuff underneath the cloth, so it will work well while looking the part).

Another small item here. Batteries don't like vibration, and rubber mounting them helps to some extent. This little foam rubber mat is a step further. You can cut off a piece to put under the battery, and one to go under the frog clamp on top, still leaving some bits over to put wherever the battery touches the bike. Self adhesive (peel the backing paper off and stick it on)
Size 20cm x 12.5cm (or 7-3/4" x 4-3/4"), P/N BATMAT, EUR5.00 (EU), EUR4.00 (World).
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Self adhesive battery mat.
Among those who like to personalize their Indians, moving the saddle back and down is often one of the first jobs on the list (hey, who needs comfort when you can look cool!). The simple, but rather brutal, way is to chop off the stock saddle mount on the frame and weld it on further back. A more humane solution is the nifty "double-T" seen here (basically an extra, modified saddle T used to move the pivot for the regular T back without cutting the frame - probably easier to look at the photos than trying to follow my description). However, for a really sleek look with good functionality (few things are worse than sloppy saddle pivots, making it feel like the wheels of the bike have come loose), this stainless saddle bracket with slop-free bronze bushings, and a little tab to weld to the frame, takes some beating. P/N SBRCK1, EUR150.00 (EU), EUR120.00 (World). You will of course need springs too, and I can help with a couple of different kinds if you can't find suitable springs locally.
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Stainless saddle bracket with bronze bushings. Photo shows how the bracket bolts onto an aftermarket Indian saddle. Little dark tab welds to frame. This Chief uses the bracket (with a super cool saddle I had made, and regret letting go now that I look at the photos again!).
K&N is the first name in automotive air filtration, and now you can have a K&N air filter on your Indian. These filters rely on an oiled filtering element to catch the dust. Filters come pre-oiled from the factory, but P/N IPEKN0 is a "recharger" kit, with filter cleaner and filter oil (enough for many filters), allowing you to reuse your K&N many times. EUR20.00 (EU), EUR16.00 (World)

P/N IPEKN1 is a filter element that fits the Indian 1940-51 standard center-screw air cleaner (used on Chief, Scout and Four, to the left in the photo), replacing the stock filter element. EUR60.00 (EU), EUR48.00 (World).

P/N IPEKN2 is the same element but with a neat backing plate that allows it to fit the 1952-53 Chief "Raceway" air cleaner (to the right in the photo), which is also often fitted to other years and models. EUR110.00 (EU), EUR88.00 (World). When you (or your grandchildren; remember that the filter elements can be cleaned, re-oiled and reused many times) need a replacement element, just order a IPEKN1 and continue to use the backing plate. 
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K&N air filters from IPE.
All Prices in Euros

Ordering or questions: info@indianpartseurope.com

For more information on prices, ordering, payment,
shipping and general mail order info, look here

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