Fiting Instructions
IPE Electronic Ignition for distributor model Indian v-twins was the first simple and affordable electronic ignition kit on the market 15 years ago, and it is still number one. Hundreds of happy Indian riders all over the world rely on IPE Electronic Ignition for their sparks.

Simple to Fit - Reliable - Original Looking - Works with Manual Advance
Super Easy to Adjust - Inexpensive - Works with 6 and 12 Volts
Works with most Coils (2 Ohm for 6V, 3 Ohm for 12V)

Fits distributor model Chief 1937-53, distributor Sport Scout and 741
(can be adapted to fit other models, see photos below)

The stock Indian points-and-cam setup is not all that accurate. It is not unusual to find timing more than 5 degrees different on front/rear cylinders on Indians that "run well" (to speak nothing of timing with really worn points cams). With the IPE Electronic Ignition timing is the same on both cylinders (as it should be), and there is a noticeable improvement in easy starting and smooth running. And you don't have to perform routine timing checks and adjustments like with points. Oh, yeah, the IPE Electronic Ignition is also waterproof (even functioning fully submerged), which might be of interest to those of us having been left temporarily stranded in the rain by a distributor full of wet points.

If for some reason you have to, adjustment is simple: 1) Turn the engine until the correct flywheel timing mark comes up in the timing hole. 2) Switch on ignition, advance fully (handlebar grip), loosen distributor clamp and twist the distributor until the timing LED comes on, tighten clamp and you're done. Complete fitting  instructions below.

The complete Electronic Ignition kit, P/N ELIGN1, costs EUR300.00 (EU), EUR240.00 (World) + shipping (email for postage/shipping costs). Payment by bank transfer or PayPal. More info on the Mail Order Info page.

Every kit is tested before being sent out and they are extremely reliable under normal conditions. There are Indians running with 15 year old IPE electronic ignitions. Basically the only things that will kill them are bad coils, reversed polarity, bad grounding and high voltage spikes. So make sure (see instructions below) that the resistance between terminals on your coil is 2 Ohms for a 6V coil, and 3 Ohms for a 12V coil, and watch your + and - if you mess around with the wiring. Finally, be aware that a badly regulated DC generator is a likely source of trouble for any electronic ignition (talk to Indian Frank Vandevelde at indianfrank@yahoo.com about any Autolite problems you may have).

Ordering or questions: info@indianpartseurope.com

Click to read the story on Virtual Indian. Photo courtesy of Cambren Davis
Cambren Davis is one happy IPE Electronic Ignition user.
Read the story of his 1000 mile "Iron Butt" ride here.

Click to view full-size. Photo by Paul Hanes
Even Burt Munro used IPE Electronic Ignition! 
Well, sort of. For the New Zealand racing scenes in The World's Fastest Indian, the magnetos of the replica bikes were gutted and fitted with IPE Electronic Ignition to ensure good starting and running (it is not cheap to keep a movie crew waiting while you try to start a bike with less than great ignition). IPE Electronic Ignition is available in New Zealand from Paul Hanes at hanes.eng@xtra.co.nz

Click to view full-size. Photo by Paul Hanes
World's Fastest Electronic Ignition?
Here is another shot of the converted magneto on one of the World's Fastest Indian movie bikes.

Chris Ireland's Bella Land Speed Racing 741 also runs IPE electronic ignition.
The Salt Cracker 741 Land Speed Racer, too.
Click to view full-size. Photo courtesy of Gorm Węhrens Click to view full-size. Photo courtesy of Gorm Węhrens
Electronic Splitdorf. 
Here is a conversion of a Splitdorf magneto on a 101. Mid-1930s "pillbox" models (with the points under a small round cover on the cam cover) have also successfully been converted to IPE Electronic Ignition. Given a little enginuity, I am sure all Indian v-twins can have IPE Electronic Ignition. If you make such an adaption for a non-distributor Indian, send me a couple of snapshots and a brief description of your demon tweak and I will post everything here for our fellow Indian tinkerers to benefit from.
Click to view full-size
I have had a few aluminum distributors for the electronic ignition made up, but not sure if there is enough interest to put them into production. If you want one, let me know. You can also see this distributor on some of the bikes in the little stories linked from the front page.
All Prices in Euros

Ordering or questions: info@indianpartseurope.com

For more information on prices, ordering, payment,
shipping and general mail order info, look here

-Click for big picture!
Click to view full-size
IPE Electronic Ignition.

Some Advantages of the IPE Electronic Ignition Kit for V-Twin Indians:

Accurate Timing on Both Cylinders for Easier Starting and Smoother Running.
Fits all Distributor V-Twin Indians.
Fits Inside the Distributor - no 'black box'.
All-Aluminum Construction and Solid State Electronics.
Retains Manual Advance.
Works with most coils.
Runs on 6 or 12 volts.
Easy-Time LED.
High Reliability.
Email support
Kit contains:

¤ Magnetic rotor
¤ Plate with sensor
¤ M2.5 allen key
¤ Wiring terminals
¤ Ground wire
¤ Heat shrink flex
¤ Wiring flex

 In addition to your usual "Indian" hand tools, you may need:

¤ Optional Loctite for screws



Fitting Instructions for the IPE Electronic Ignition kit. The IPE Electronic Ignition Kit is a self-contained electronic ignition system for all Indian V-twins with distributor ignition. It replaces the points and condenser (you can leave the condensor on for stock looks) with a solid state sensor on a mounting plate, and a rotor carrying trigger magnets. The system retains manual advance and distributed firing (using the stock hammerhead rotor). The system operates on either 6 or 12 volts, and in most cases you can use your stock coil. Use coils with no less than 2 Ohm resistance for a 6V system and 3 Ohm for a 12V system. 

The system has been extensively tested on hundreds of Indians all over the world over more than 15 years with great reliability, but for peace of mind you can keep a set of points and a condenser in your toolbox and re-fit these parts on the road in minutes in an emergency.

Fitting instructions.

1) Remove distributor cap and rotor. Remove points and disconnect (or remove) condenser. Remove wire leading from the negative side ('Dist' on stock coil) of the ignition coil to the points. Remove terminal post screw from distributor body.

2) Make sure your distributor is in good condition. The kit is a great fix for worn points cams, but worn out distributor shaft bushings etc won't help. Make sure your coil is compatible with the electronic ignition. Measure with multimeter across the coil terminals. A 6V coil should have a resistance of minimum 2 Ohms, a 12V coil should be around 3 Ohms.

3) Fit electronic ignition mounting plate in distributor body using the original points screws (see note on electrical grounding below).

4) Pull new wires through wire hole in distributor body. Fit flex over wires.

5) Slip new rotor over points cam with punch mark centered over small cam lobe, and "V" mark (this is over the trigger magnet for the front cylinder) pointing at the sensor. Tighten the 3 set screws evenly, using M2.5 allen key, supplied with kit, so the rotor runs concentrically with points cam shaft. You can use a drop of low-strength Loctite on the screws if you like.

6) Connect red wire to the positive (+ or 'bat') side of coil, and the green wire to the negative (- or 'dist'). Wiring terminals for crimping and soldering, and heat shrink flex, are included in kit.

7) Good ground/earth connection between the electronic ignition sensor and engine is vital. If this fails at the moment the coil fires, the ignition sensor may be overloaded and damaged. Make sure the floor of the distributor housing is clean and free from paint where the electronic ignition mounting plate screws on. The electrical ground connection, through the oily bushing in the oil pump for the distributor, between the distributor and the rest of the engine is marginal, so it is a good idea to fit a ground wire between the distributor body and a suitable point on the engine (cloth-covered wire and terminals included in kit). 

In rare cases (less than 1%) where wear and manufacturing tolerances stack up the wrong way, it may be necessary to shim the mounting plate to bring the height of the sensor into the triggering range of the magnets. In this case, don't use laquered beer can material for the shim, but make sure you use something clean and nicely conductive. If shimming the other way should be needed (i.e. magnets raised in relation to the sensor), you can put shim washers under the magnet rotor on the distributor shaft. It is unlikely that you will need to do any of this; just throught I would mention the possibility - and the easily overlooked detail of shim conductivity.

8) Time ignition as usual: Turn the engine until the correct flywheel timing mark comes up in the timing hole. Switch on igntion, advance fully (handlebar grip), loosen distributor clamp and twist the distributor until the timing LED comes on, tighten clamp and you're done.

9) Refit hammerhead rotor and distributor cap.

10) Go for a ride on your "new" Indian!

Email me on info@indianpartseurope.com if there is anything you are not sure of.

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