Well, it's been a struggle to get the crank in the right place - central. I had to use different size thrust washers and face off a case half. I think the case had been two badly matched halves right back from the factory build; the two halves just did not line up properly, nothing went smooth.
It all might seem
a lot of fannying about but when the IPE-worked crank finally got put in
its new home, all was worth the effort. She feels so good when you turn
the flywheels, you get that gut feeling "ya got a good'n!".
All the crank case bolts were the devils own job. They are hand made out of grade 5 stainless steel, and that's as hard as bloody kryptonite. To cut the threads by hand took me all day. The engine plates are cut from stainless as well (I like stainless!) and connect the lower sump bolts just to add a bit more rigidity to the case. The red at the case joint is untrimmed gasket paper, not jointing compound!
The observant among you would have noted the later 1948-53 cam shafts (#769003). These are thicker than the 1929-30 shafts, and need the later 1938-53 bronze bushings (#40455), reamed to fit .
The new later camshafts are part of my take on a recirculating oil system by use of AMC G12 Matchless oil pumps. These are designed to run at half engine speed, and precisely in the fashion I propose. They produce a good flow of oil, and have exellent scavenge properties .
The thing hanging out of the crankshaft is a quill type oil feed that sits inside the pinion shaft oilway, hence the trimmed-off pinion shaft oil tit!
Earlier Installments of the DiXiE Story:
Part 1 - Presentation
Part 2 - End Float Mystery
Part 3 - DiXiE
More Chouts and Vintage Sprinting:
Just to give some idea of how the pumps will live, and what I am proposing to do, I will probably mount the pumps on a steel skeleton that will hold the cam bushes as well. It should be possible to run the engine without a timing cover like this, but not advisable (very messy!).
But I'm still a bit in the head scratching stage. Things could change, all depending on what materials turn up.
Another "just to give you some idea" is my intention for the ignition system. I am going to run total loss battery and points, so I need another half engine speed point to drive the points off, while wishing to avoid the drag of a full chain of timing gears terminating at the mag platform.
To make provision for a bigger than stock diameter (i.e. slower turning) gear - same diameter as the cam gears, actually, to give half engine speed - in an intermediate position in the gear chain, I am making eccentric bronze bushings to offset the shaft, to wich the points cam will be attached.
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