| Update
August 9, 2010. New batch of CV manifolds in production - should be finished
soon. If you think you are going to need one - now or for a winter rebuild
- it is a good idea to let me know asap. I am not sure when the next batch
will be; probably not until 2011.
Update March 7, 2010.
Now only 2 CV-manifolds of the first batch left.
Update September
8, 2009. The first small batch of these manifolds for Keihin CV carb
on unmodified 741 cylinders has been cast now. There are only 4 or
5 of them left, so order one now if you need one for your winter
rebuild! I don't know when more will be made.
As you can read below,
in the little development story, these manifolds will bolt on to your stock,
unmodified 741 cylinders, and allow you to fit a Keihin CV carb without
an adaptor. The manifolds come with new nuts and PEEK
sealing cones - and carb rubber with stainless clips (not in the photo).
Allow a week or two for machining (how's that for fresh? Your manifold
isn't machined up until you order it!). P/N 741CVM,
EUR335.00
(EU), EUR268.00 (World). |
IPE 741/CV manifold kit
with nuts, PEEK sealing cones, carb rubber and stainless clips - ready
to bolt onto your stock, unmodified 741 cylinder nipples. |
| This,
below, is from an earlier entry that I have moved up here together with
the announcement, above, that these manifolds are ready now. Drawing shows
the new manifold to allow a Keihin CV carb to go on a 741 without the use
of adaptors between carb and stock manifold. This manifold looks sort of
like the CV manifold I have for Chiefs, except it is in aluminum (the Chief
manifold
is satin nickel plated cast iron). This manifold will fit stock 741 cylinder
nipples, nuts and sealing cones, and will bolt on without any machining
operations - although you will need to tweak the carb a little. For more
information on this (and some other interesting Indian stuff), visit Jim
Mosher's very informative
website.
I have jet kits and some other parts for
the Keihin CV carbs, see the Chief page. |
Manifold for Keihin CV carb
on 741 with stock nipples. |
741 CV manifold pattern. |
Update
May 10, 2009. Here is the almost finished casting pattern for the 741 CV
manifold. IPE logo to be glued on and then everything painted. Core box
to the right of here shows internal shape of manifold. Stay tuned...
If you are interested in DIY aluminum casting,
there's a great article on the VI here. |
 |
Update
June 7, 2009. Heres the latest casting test of the 741 CV manifold. Almost
there now!
The outside shape and finish is good (photo
to the right of here), but the main runner needs to be extended a little
bit. The hole (photo to the left) shows that the core halves match up reasonably
well, but maybe a one-piece core would make things perfect? |
|
|
| If
you are building a 741 (or post-1935 Sport Scout; the 1934 had the kickstarter
mount in one piece with the transmission case - while it lasted) bobber
or racer, you need one of these cool billet aluminum kickstarter mounts!
Lots lighter (and you can hollow out the back of it, to make it even lighter)
than the stock cast iron effort, and a bit better looking, too.
There is only one of these left (and I
am not likely to have more anytime soon), so act now if you want
it. P/N KIKMNT.
Too
late; gone to Finland!
|
Aluminum kickstarter mount,
741 and Sport Scout. |
| The
two most important books you will need for working on your 741 are
the factory's military Operation and Maintenance Manual and the factory
parts book. While IPE has these as print copies, they have gone through
so many copy cycles that the pictures aren't too clear anymore (this goes
for all these books I have seen from other dealers too). However, this
CD has been scanned from virgin original books and the pictures are crystal
clear. The CD is also usefully cheaper than the books (about half price)
- and you can always print your own book from it! P/N 741CD1. EUR30.00
(EU), EUR24.00 (World). |
741 Operation and Maintenance
Manual and Parts List on CD. |
| Big
and small parts are equally important, and here we are among the smallest.
The tappet adjuster screw lock nuts on Scouts (all years use the
same) are much the same as on Chiefs, only thinner. While the Chief nuts
are freely available, sometimes it is hard to find the thin Scout version.
You can use Chief nuts, but often there isn't room for the extra thickness
so you have to file them down. IPE has the nuts in both thick and thin
versions, in really good quality. P/N 612001 for Chief, P/N 16A56
for Scout, either one, each, EUR5.00 (EU), EUR4.00
(World). High quality adjusting
screws, each, P/N 16A55 (same for Scout and Chief), EUR11.00
(EU), EUR8.80 (World). Pushrods in various sizes are also avilable. |
IPE tappet nuts for Scout
(left), and Chief (right). |
| If you
want to make your 741 go a little faster, without going all the
way into stroker territory, bigger 1-5/8"
intake valves and big bore pistons is probably the combo that gives the
most bang for your buck. The stock 1-1/2" valve size is fine for the exhaust
side, stock springs, retainers etc can be used for both valves.
Hard chromed stainless 741 valves
(prices each):
| P/N 43680/1 |
Stock size in/ex |
EUR35.00
(EU), EUR28.00 (World) |
| P/N
43680/1B |
Big diameter
in |
EUR35.00
(EU), EUR28.00 (World) |
Big Bore pistons,
set of two with rings, pins and clips:
| P/N
75494B1 |
34.5"/565cc *note |
EUR200.00
(EU), EUR160.00 (World) |
| P/N
75494B2 |
37"/600cc |
EUR290.00
(EU), EUR232.00 (World) |
*note
The
75494B1 pistons are available in two oversizes.
You will need to
spend a little time fine-tuning the carb, possibly fitting a larger venturi
to take full advantage of the bigger engine. An IPE Electronic Ignition
kit will also help (like it does on all Indians!).The 76095J JAMES
head gasket comes ready for the big pistons and valves. If you use
another head gasket, check that everything clears. Also check the cylinder
head for clearance. Sometimes the side of the big valve hits the head.
You probably also want to change the gearing with the extra oomph. Sprockets
from 14-26T are available, just ask. This is the first stage of
741 tuning. Actually, it might be the only step you need to take if what
you are after is a a nice, usable bike with adequate power to keep up with
city street, country road and slow-lane motorway traffic. |
Big-bore pistons and big
intake valves from IPE.
JAMES head gasket for 741
with big pistons and valves. More info and prices on the JAMES
Gaskets page
|
| By
the way, over-boring 741s is nothing new. I forget where I found
it, but look at this cutting from The Motorcyclist in 1944 (click to enlarge),
where someone asks how to get more speed from his new 741, and the great
Indian racer Ed Kretz tells him to get some big pistons in it! Ed Kretz
is an AMA hall-of-famer; click here
to read a brief biography. He really was something. |
 |
| For
your next tuning step, you might want to consider a bigger manifold.
Not by any means essential, as a 600cc runs nicely with the stock manifold,
but if you plan on developing the engine further, at some point it will
need more intake flow. Here is a prototype manifold for big 741s (strokers
or big bore). The main manifold runner is oval to make it fit between the
cylinders. Note that this manifold needs larger nipples in the cylinders;
see photo.
With this manifold you can run a Linkert
M-741 with bigger venturi, or - my favorite - a Dell'Orto pumper carb with
adapter, available from IPE as a kit (ask for details and price; there's
a couple of pix of this manifold with Dell'Orto carbs on 741s here
and here). The manifolds are temporarily
sold out but a new batch will be ready soon, maybe even in bronze
to match the Linkert if there is any interest in that? (Let me know)
The stock manifold nipples in the
741 cylinders are not very big, even when bored out to the limit, so you
will have to use early Chief nipples and manifold nuts with the manifold
above.
Please note that this is not a bolt-on
job, but requires some fairly accurate machining (which IPE can do for
you if you can't do it yourself, or find a competent local machinist).
Here is a photo to give you an idea of the difference between the stock
741 nipples and the bigger early Chief nipples.
For another option (CV carb on unmodified
741 cylinders), see above) |
Big 741 manifold from IPE
(partially machined prototype). You can see one of these on an engine here.
741 manifold nipples. Stock
to the left, big one to the right.
|
| All
this go-faster stuff is not worth much if the lower end of the engine isn't
right, though. As you probably know, the 741 main bearing housings can't
be line honed because there is a lip in the case bore on the cam side.
Not line honing is fine for tractors, but not so good for your zippy new
Wonder Scout motor which needs everything in its lower end to be in line,
parallel and at right angles (as the case may be). However, you can make
the bore for the bearing housing a bit deeper, remove most of the lip,
and fit one of IPE's nifty new bearing housings that will allow line
honing (and is longer than the stock pinion housing). As you lose the
stock crank locating washer at the bottom of the original bearing housing,
alternative end location can now be by either the 1948-up Chief system
(washer and circlip), or the much simpler solution of just making a spacer
to go behind the pinion gear and having the cam side of the crank assy
float in the case. Ask if you can't figure it out yourself. New bearing
housing allowing line honing (fits stock 741 pinion shafts and IPE stroker
pinion shafts for WL and XL flywheels), P/N 20B101U , EUR135.00
(EU), EUR108.00 (World). As the bearing
housings are in stock with unfinished outer diameter (I like the case bores
to be honed round before fitting new housings, so O/S is often needed),
you can have them in other sizes besides stock. It might be self evident,
but be aware that these bearing housings come with semi finished bore and
need honing to final size. All other Scout bearing housings and rod
races are also in stock in STD or O/S. All flywheel shafts available too. |
Pinion housing (right) has
internal groove for P/N 50250 circlip and P/N 924014 washer as per 1948-up
Chief (see text for alternative way of crank assy locating). Also in photo
is an IPE stroker pinion shaft for WL flywheels (see stroker
page) and a modern lipped seal replacing the stock felt seal and retainer
for the pinion shaft.
IPE has everything else you
will need for your 741 engine lower end, and I will do my best to list
everything here asap. If you need anything before I get around to the list,
just send me an email. |
| Staying
below for a while, the drive side main bearing housing is often problematic
on 741s and Sport Scouts that have led a hard life. The bearing housing
sits in a long "nose" on the drive side case, which has internal threads
at the outer end for a lock nut to securely locate the housing and keep
the rollers from falling out. These threads are often worn out, and it
is not rare to see broken case noses. The best way to deal with this is
to mill off the bad part of the case nose, and fit an IPE Nose Fix. The
Nose Fix is a new bearing housing, with a modified outer end that replaces
the end of the case nose (you machine off the bad outer part of the case
nose). The NF is located from the inner end, like on Chiefs, with a thin
lock nut inside the crank case. Like the pinion housing above, the Nose
Fix bearing housing is also in stock with semi finished outer diameter,
so you can get it in a custom O/S to match your cleaned up case bore. It
will also need final internal honing to size. P/N 40872NF, EUR175.00
(EU), EUR140.00 (World). The stock end nut, P/N 39471,
will fit, but they are usually pretty worn, so you might want to get a
new IPE nut with modern lipped seal (P/N 39471S) while you're at
it, EUR50.00 (EU), EUR40.00 (World)
- these also fit stock case noses. Spare seals available, too. The
inner locknut is a stock Chief item,
P/N 28B161, EUR20.00
(EU), EUR16.00 (World). |
IPE Nose Fix drive side
bearing housing (center), 28B161 locknut (left) and 39471S outer nut with
lipped seal (right).
Fitted Nose Fix and outer
nut with seal.
|
| Valve
spring covers for 741 are often hard to find. Like with the tappet
nuts, Chief parts can be used, but the Chief covers are just that little
bit bigger that you will get clearance problems with the cylinder base
nuts and exhaust pipes (at the best of times there isn't much room on the
cam side of any Indian v-twin engine, and the 741 is particulary cramped).
IPE has chrome plated covers (without o-ring, just like the original
covers), P/N 43262C, EUR100.00 (EU), EUR80.00
(World) for a set of 4 upper/lower covers, as well as these
super cool stainless covers with o-ring sealing, P/N 43262SS,
EUR240.00
(EU), EUR192.00 (World) for a set of 4 upper/lower covers.
Also in the photo are stainless steel
pushrod guides. While new cast-iron guides are available for Chiefs
and (sometimes) for 101, as far as I know they are not being made new for
741. While the original pushrod guides can be honed to take O/S pushrods
(I usually have most sizes of pushrods for Chief and Scout in stock), there
is a limit to how many times you can do this. These stainless guides might
come in handy then - or just if you want to put some beautiful parts on
your engine, no excuses needed for that - this stuff is jewelry for boys!
(or something). As with the stainless Chief guides, the stainless 741 guides
have renewable bronze liners (there is a photo of these liners on the Chief
page). Running these guides on a number of bikes over several years seem
to indicate that the bronze liners last very well. P/N 41853SS,
EUR290.00
(EU), EUR232.00 (World) for a set of 4. |
IPE stainless pushrod guides
and valve spring covers.
IPE stainless guides and
covers with o-ring.
|
| Oil
filters are always a good idea, but they are usually not all that pretty,
and the more oil lines and stuff, the more chances of leaks. One of the
neatest setups ever is this filter that fits inside the tank on
Chief, 741 and Sport Scout. It just slides over the return tube in the
tank. If you look at the photo to the right, pretend that the red line
across the threads on the return tube is the bottom of the tank. The black
rubber on the end of the filter seals against the tube. You can still check
that oil is returning; it bubbles nicely from the filter when everything
is ok. To change the filter, you just pull it up by the little handle on
top (see photo), after having drained the tank (the accumulated crud usually
stays in the filter, but if a little falls out it is easy to flush out
of the tank). P/N TNKFLT. I have a good stock of these and think
every Indian deserves one, so they are now just EUR12.00
(EU), EUR9.60 (World). Normal
price EUR15.00 (EU), EUR12.00 (World). |
In-tank oil filter. |
| All
Prices in Euros
Ordering or questions:
info@indianpartseurope.com
For more information
on prices, ordering, payment,
shipping and
general mail order info, look here |
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|
